Mauritius

After a three day sail from Rodrigues we arrived off the northern end of Mauritius at 23:30 with the island glowing with light from 1.35million people,  and the moon adding its radiance to the sea.   We stayed north of all the little islands to avoid the potential dangers of the reputed 5 knot tide race against the big swell. I was alone on watch as we rounded Serpent Island, and its dark outline slid across the glow of Mauritius and merged with Round Island beyond.   It is suggested that cartographers may have accidentally switched names on the chart, since Serpent Island is round and Round Island is full of snakes!

Arrival off Port Louis, Mauritius

We arrived off Port Louis about 06:30 and hove to until after breakfast, and then made our way into port. It's a big confusing port, full of side docks, and mixed fishing, merchant navy, and naval vessels.  We were directed to tie up to the Customs dock (which is a high wall with no bollards), and awaited the Health Inspector.  I went ashore to also find Customs and Immigration, and met Phillippe from the catamaran "Jehol", who told me that they had been waiting all the previous day for the Health Inspector to release them from quarantine.  However they had just made contact by phone and give permission for clearance. I borrowed Philippe's phone and made the same call and was authorised to lower our yellow flag.  Then to Customs, who first sent me to Immigration in a distant part of the dock.  There are water taxis that can cut across, so I negotiated a 400 rupee return fee and set off.  However, half way across, the boatman raised the price, and I ended up telling him to take me back.   He relented and dropped me, but I refused to travel back that way and so walked a mile or so round the docks on the return journey. Once the 15 pages of Customs forms had been filled in and the smaller number for the Coast Guard, we were free to head for the marina.   This is a basin without floating docks, where we tied to the wall, just outside a big hotel.   

Meanwhile Anne and Alice were arriving, and I needed to hire a car to go and meet them.  Luckily Rashid was recommended by the World ARC Rally manager, and he was able to furnish one that evening for me and one for Mark and Justin at a very reasonable Mauritian Rupees 1100/day (£20) .   But he couldn't get me one immediately so I took a taxi and, after some vigorous negotiation, got driven out to the Maritim Resort where Anne and Alice were booked.  On the way I managed to get to an Orange Telecom shop and got my phone fixed, as the SIM card bought in Rodrigues had stopped working.

It was a great thrill to arrive at the luxurious hotel and find Anne and Alice there in the lounge, having just arrived a few minutes before.   We had a couple of very related days there swimming and enjoying catching up with each other after a long time apart.  I hadn't seen Anne since Tahiti, and Alice for more than a year!

Enticing view from the Hotel Maritim

Hotel Maritim entrance

A great spot to relax with Anne and Alice

Entrance to the Spa

Lovely lunching on the beach

Whilst Alice made the most of the beach, Anne and I took our little car to explore the island a bit, and had a good look round. There is spectacular scenery with jagged mountains, and an amazing one visible from the port with a rock balanced precariously on top.  

The islanders reflect the history of the land, with 78% of Indian origin, having been brought in as indentured labourers for the sugar cane.  So there were many colourful Hindu temples and villages full of women wearing bright saris.  

Hindu shrines with gigantic statue

As we drove round we came into rain precipitated by the winds rushing up the mountain.  At one river crossing there was a flash flood which had turned it into a raging brown torrent, and in the midst of this a drama was taking place as a man was trying to rescue two boys trapped in a tree mid stream.  All the traffic on the bridge was stopped as people lowered a truck driver on a rope, and he then secured the boys one by one to be lifted to safety.

Sugar cane truck assisting with rescue of boys from the river

We visited the Morne Brabant, a UNESCO Heritage Site to honour the escaped slaves who had climbed its precipitous slopes to hide from the French.  When Britain took over the island it had already abolished slavery and sent a detachment of soldiers to inform the refugees that they were now free men.  Unfortunately the sight of a column of red coated soldiers climbing the mountain was interpreted by the refugees as an expedition to recapture them and, in a desperate deed of defiance, everyone jumped to their deaths from the cliffs.    I sat on the beach sketching the view, with Anne nearby.  We had a large bottle of local beer to celebrate the setting of the sun.

Le Morne Brabant

      

Sunset sketching 

Chilling on the beach

It proved difficult to find little cafes or restaurants on our tour, and it became apparent that the tourists were all corralled in the many large luxurious resorts along the beachfronts.   Although we tried hard to break out we found nowhere in nearby towns where we could eat more locally.  In the main city of course it was very different, and it was a bustling place, with lots of waterfront development, and behind it streets of fascinating little shops, and a huge covered market where we loaded up with fresh fruit and vegetables.

On Monday 30th October, after three busy days, we cleared out, taking about three hours to go through all the officials again, and then set off to sea for the 18 hour sail south to Reunion.