A few Hebridean photos

Seabirds on a remote rock

Dramatic Duart castle passes happy sailors unseen :-)

Will Tin Tin fit under the Bridge over the sea to Skye?  

A brisk sail up to Portree on Skye

There's a nesting white-tailed sea eagle in this photo!

Seals hanging out in a sheltered bay on Ronay island

Gales in the rocky isles

Thursday 19th May
I was woken by the anchor alarm at 03:00 and struggled out of my sleeping bag in a frenzy to get on deck. Luckily it was just the predicted wind shift that had swung us round out of the alarm circle, but Mark also woke due to the rattling of the anchor chain dragging round to the new angle, coupled with the sudden lean caused by the wind blast. We decided that we were still safe and retired to our bunks. Breakfast was a revelation to those for whom porridge was a foreign food. The addition of chopped apple and cinnamon makes it particularly special.

Outside it had started to rain hard, but Mark, Richard and Lauri togged up in wet weather gear and went ashore to climb one of the hillocks surrounding the bay. Once back aboard the wind got up, and the "awesome gusts from southerly winds" materialised as noted in the pilot book.

While I sat and listened to Stornoway Coastguard transmit the weather forecast a sudden gust dragged our anchor and Mark rushed up and got the engine going just before we were blown onto the rocks. I struggled into wet weather gear and got on deck as quickly as possible to raise the anchor, and retrieve the trip line and buoy. Just a few feet off the rocks, with Mark at the helm, unable to turn the boat into the wind to escape  I raced to help, and got the bow thruster down and gave it a long blast to starboard, managing to get the bow away from with rocks just enough to allow Mark to give full throttle and drive us into clear water with almost no room to spare. It was a very close call indeed and a reminder that conditions change very quickly in the Hebrides, and can be quite dangerous.

With a forecast for SE 5-7 we set off out sea for a 20 mile sail north towards Loch Maddy. We set the staysail and set off into big seas, making 8-9 knots at times, with impressive rollers breaking under us. The wind rose to 40 knots at times, a severe gale. The boat handled very well under staysail alone, and we made good progress with the crew in varying states of elation and greenness 😉 By 12:30 we had arrived at the entrance to the Loc'h, and I was at the helm trying to judge a safe entrance. As planned the tide was now flooding so that the seas were not so rough at the entrance, and we were soon into calmer water, although the wind became more savagely gusty as it whistled down from the mountain. We sailed up the Loc'h towards the new marina by the ferry terminal, but the squalls were so severe that we were in danger of losing control, and we're not even able to pick up one of the two moorings. The wind was blasting spindrift out of the water in impressive sprays, so we headed back to visitors' moorings that Mark had spotted in a previous bay. There we had a peaceful spot, and enjoyed lunch and a beer and a consequent snooze.

Above us rose protective hills, with swirling mist and rain muting the colours of purple heather, orange lichen and grey rocks. The wind slowly went round to the southwest as forecast, and the rain cleared intermittently. Up on a crest I spotted what I took to be a cairn, and then realised was a bird. At that distance it be a big one, and I guessed it was an eagle. The long lens on the camera managed to get a recognisable picture, and then another of it flying off with the unmistakeable broad wings and primary feathers of a major raptor. That was the second eagle I had managed to photograph including the white tailed sea eagle in Portree. Then looking round we spotted the white rumps of a couple of roe deer on the hillside. The wind had eased a bit so we set off back to the pontoon and made an easy landing. Then off to the Loc'h Maddy Hotel for drinks and supper. Tomorrow gales are forecast again.

Outer Hebrides

Wednesday 18th May 2016
Richard et al arrived onboard shortly after Anne, Stuart and Justin left, giving Mark and Paul about 40 minutes to tidy up and clean thoroughly. The wind was fresh from the NE and the dinghy trips were splashy. Everyone wanted to get sailing, and as the wind was now blowing a near gale (28-33 knots) I plotted a course downwind to Loch Skipport, where there a several potential anchorages. We had a roaring sail in big seas for ten miles, and then entered the shelterd waters of the loch. I chose to anchor on the south shore of an inlet that is almost completely enclosed by rocky hillocks. The sun came out to illuminate the rich colours of heathers and lichens and, as we anchored, seals nosed around in the seaweed fringing the shoreline. There was a colourful sunset, toasted with pink champagne thanks to the new crew, and then as the temperature dropped we retreated to a warm cabin for supper.

In anticipation of a wind shift overnight, I set an anchor alarm.

The Hebrides - 2

12th May
From Dunstaffnage we had a great sail to Tobermory, its brightly painted houses along the seafront making it very cheerful. We tied up at a pontoon and enjoyed a walk ashore and a drink watching the sunset over the town.

13th May
From Tobermory we set sail out towards Ardnamurchan Peninsular, and then into the open sea, with the islands of much Eigg and Rhum ahead. In strong winds we tacked up past the low lying isle of Muck, and then towards the towering cockscomb of Eigg, where we dropped anchor for lunch and I managed to do a sketch. Then we pushed on towards Mallaig, spotting a whale spout en route, but I diverted to a much nicer anchorage in Loch Nevis, off the hamlet of Inver, where we went ashore to The Old Forge and enjoyed an expensive, but most enjoyable evening. I had mussels followed by pepper steak. Most delicious! Unfortunately our outboard motor is unwell so we have had to paddle ashore precariously, and perhaps more precarious back after a good meal! Lifejackets worn course..

14th May
From Loch Nevis we headed up the Sound of Sleat, between Mull and the mainland, with strong gusty winds on the nose. It was touch and go whether would get to Kyle Rhea before its 6-8knot tides went against us, but we got through the narrow waterway, and up to Kyle Akin where we squeezed under the bridge across to Skye at the Kyle of Lochalsh. Then we could bear away in a brisk breeze to reach Plockton, where the sun came out as we walked round a really charming headland full of flowers and wonderful views.

15th May
From Plockton we headed up the coast of Skye to its capital, Portree. Icy rain and heavy cloud coupled with insufficient wind to sail made it a rather glum passage, but as we entered Portree we saw a dolphin and a seal, which was good. Our mooring was a long way from town, but gave directly onto a really great 3km circular walk round the headland, and semester climbs through densely flowering wood anemones, primroses, violets and bluebells. the sun even popped out occasionally! Meanwhile Mark & Justin headed off to conquer a more challenging headland 341metres high. We met up in Cafe Arriba, where I attempted to download the charts of the Outer Hebrides, but of course as it downloaded the time left increased from 21 minutes to 55 minutes so that we would never reach the end !!

The Hebrides

Wednesday 11th May 2016

From Island of Danna we set sail for a close hauled run up the Sound of Jura.  By edging to windward we managed to sail right the way up the loch to the races at the top end, fighting our way through 6 knot tides, sailing at 8-9 knots in 25-30 knot winds but making slow progress through the boiling water.  Eventually we arrived at the Sound of Corryvreckan, fabled for its huge whirlpool, and across into the Sound of Luing to to catch the tide change and get flushed north into the Sound of Mull. I had an amazing sail, having hogged the helm all day to fight our way north, managing to just stay up wind of reefs and small islands and emerge through the tide races after 50 miles without having to tack once, Exhilarating!!  We communicated with Anne and Justin rrivung by train from Glasgow and, using Mark's local knowledge, headed for the little bay of Dunstaffnage.  It offered a great little marina opposite an old castle, and with a terraced bar overlooking the bay so that we could sit and relax in the unseasonal hot weather, was a great place to unwind.

In truth our delivery passage is now over for a while and we can relax for two weeks of exploring.

Ireland

Wednesday 4th May 2016

We set sail from the Scillies at midnight into a starlit night, the sea full of foam from the swell breaking heavily on the rocks.  The wind was southerly 17-25 knots and we made good speed under main and genoa, driving through a sea of phosphorescent stars.  A few ships passed heading for Liverpool, and I had to call one at 5 miles to check that he had seen us, as we were on a collision course.  He obligingly turned to starboard to give us a mile clear astern.  Dawn came and the day passed with few excitements and little wildlife, until we approached Ireland, when gannets and gulls appeared,and dolphins came to play. 

A small land bird crash-landed on board for a rest, but was soon off again. Then as evening fell, the weather went grey and mizzly as we entered Cork harbour, passing The Roches lighthouse to starboard.  In the river the tide was ebbing hard, creating overfalls.  

We moored at the Royal Cork Yacht Club, and went ashore to a well earned pint of Murphys, and a club curry supper joining jovial race crews who had just been out for the first time this season. 

Thursday 5th May

Ben Russell visited us and we enjoyed catching up and admiring his amazing photos.  Then over to look over Nick Russell's boat, Rogue Trader, looking great in her new dark blue paint.  On deck her 54 feet gives a huge deck space,and below is spacious.  Nicks craftsmanship is evident in beautiful oak doors , but there's a huge amount of work to to before she is ready to set sail to the Canaries to join the ARC in September!  We lunched in Conors, a very picturesque pub full of a fascinating jumble of artefacts, and then bade farewell to Ben.  

At 5pm we slipped our mooring to catch the last favourable wind, and set off north towards Waterford.  The wind was perfect for the Parasailor and we were delighted to be making 6 knots in 9-10knots of wind.  The sun set and the wind went round, and by midnight we were making 8-9 knots under full sail.   

Having assessed the 12 miles upstream to Waterford, I altered course for Kilmore Quay which was just 15 miles further on.   We arrived at 04:30, inside the Saltee Islands and lined up the leading lights for the harbour entrance, crabbing across the tide to keep them in line.  Then into a narrow entrance and a hard turn to starboard past fishing vessels to find an easy berth.  We were all made fast by 05:00 and hit the sack for a long sleep.

Once up and around we walked the coast path to the Memorial Garden, where many lives lost at sea are inscribed.  Further along the road we were drawn by a ruined castle, but on getting there it was clear that a farmhouse had grown up to incorporate it.  Back in the village, the few thatched houses are reputed to give it a chocolate box air, but this eluded us.  The Kehoe Inn delivered Guinness and sailing memorabilia, and The Little Saltee provided fish and chips.   Mark after produced a green Thai curry which we enjoyed before spending the rest of the evening poring over charts and almanacs trying to plan ahead.

Ireland

Wednesday 4th May 2016
We set sail from the Scillies at midnight into a starlit night, the sea full of foam from the swell breaking heavily on the rocks. The wind was southerly 17-25 knots and we made good speed under main and genoa, driving through a sea of phosphorescent stars. A few ships passed heading for Liverpool, and I had to call one at 5 miles to check that he had seen us, as we were on a collision course. He obligingly turned to starboard to give us a mile clear astern. Dawn came and the day passed with few excitements and little wildlife, until we approached Ireland, when gannets and gulls appeared,and dolphins came to play. A small land bird crash-landed on board for a rest, but was soon off again. Then as evening fell, the weather went grey and mizzly as we entered Cork harbour, passing The Roches lighthouse to starboard. In the river the tide was ebbing hard, creating overfalls. We moored at the Royal Cork Yacht Club, and went ashore to a well earned pint of Murphys, and a club curry supper joining jovial race crews who had just been out for the first time this season.

Thursday 5th May
Ben Russell visited us and we enjoyed catching up and admiring his amazing photos. Then over to look over Nick Russell's boat, Rogue Trader, looking great in her new dark blue paint. On deck her 54 feet gives a huge deck space,and below is spacious. Nicks craftsmanship is evident in beautiful oak doors , but there's a huge amount of work to to before she is ready to set sail to the Canaries to join the ARC in September! We lunched in Conors, a very picturesque pub full of a fascinating jumble of artefacts, and then bade farewell to Ben.

At 5pm we slipped our mooring to catch the last favourable wind, and set off north towards Waterford. The wind was perfect for the Parasailor and we were delighted to be making 6 knots in 9-10knots of wind. The sun set and the wind went round, and by midnight we were making 8-9 knots under full sail. Having assessed the 12 miles upstream to Waterford, I altered course for Kilmore Quay which was just 15 miles further on. We arrived at 04:30, inside the Saltee Islands and lined up the leading lights for the harbour entrance, crabbing across the tide to keep them in line. Then into a narrow entrance and a hard turn to starboard past fishing vessels to find an easy berth. We were all made fast by 05:00 and hit the sack for a long sleep.

Once up and around we walked the coast path to the Memorial Garden, where many lives lost at sea are inscribed. Further along the road we were drawn by a ruined castle, but on getting there it was clear that a farmhouse had grown up to incorporate it. Backing the village, the few thatched houses are reputed to give it a chocolate box air, but this eluded us. The Kehoe Inn delivered Guinness and sailing memorabilia, and The Little Saltee provided fish and chips. Mark after produced a green Thai curry which we enjoyed before spending the rest of the evening poring over charts and almanacs trying to plan ahead.

The Mull of Kintyre

We sailed from Belfast (Bangor actually) across the Irish Sea to Campbeltown, where we found a safe berth,  a takeaway curry and some nice Fyne Ale beer to refresh ourselves.

The following morning Mark and Paul set off join a taxi to find the graves of our great, great, great great grandparents John Hill and Mary Smith in Kilchenzie, where they had run the blacksmith, in a long line of smiths.   Their gravestone was protected by a fine cast-iron fence in a private plot paid for by their two sons, who had emigrated to America but died with 6 months of arrival, leaving descendants who continue their line of business to the day.

Mark at John Hill's memorial

Kilchenzie

 Back in town we enjoyed breakfast in Amelia's cafe served by a couple of semi-amiable Goths, did some vital hardware shopping (clothes pegs, a drain unblocked, a pot scourer and a large new stockpot) for the boat, and marvelled at the sub tropical flowers in the main square.

Campbeltown

Campbeltown in bloom

Campbeltown

Surprising merchandise on display in Campbeltown

We set sail at 10:30 to catch the change of tide on the Mull of Kintyre and, with Stuart at the helm, had a roaring sail down to the Mull, where large dolphins came to look at us, and up the Sound of Islay, reaching a deserted anchorage by the Island of Danna in time for sunset Gin & Tonics.  The landscape and become awe inspiring with great mountains around us. In the enclosed Sound we could see land all around us, and enjoy the wild landscape as it moved past us.

North to Belfast

We holed up in Kilmore Quay ("Kilmore Time "as Pete put it!) until the Northeast wind, which was dead on the nose was due to ease and go towards the east. So we passed Friday afternoon and evening and Saturday morning waiting for the wind to stop howling and the tide to go our way. Lo and behold Stuart arrived after a long journey by ferry bus and train. We lunched, waved to the resident fat seal in the fishing harbour, and immediately set of towards Dublin in rain and fog.

Kilmore Quay, Eire

 Shallow water meant that we ran aground in the harbour entrance, but a lifting keel freed us and we soon crossed the shallow bar out to the Saltee Islands, called St Patricks Bridge, and set sail. The wind refused to go round to the east and we tacked back and forth, but eventually gave up and motored. This carried on for mile after mile until eventually the wind turned and we set sail again.

The route between the many sand banks and bars required attention but the tide turned and pushed us quickly north. We passed Wexford, Arklow and Wicklow, where Stuart and I were on night watch when we came to a grinding halt, snagged in a lobster pot. Miraculously this was freed without difficulty and we resumed our trip.

Nothing further to report, except that eventually we sailed at 8-9 knots. I recalculated our route and, with great regret, bypassed Dublin and carried on to Belfast while the conditions were right. We could see next to nothing through the mist , so it was a great pleasure when the sun came out as we rounded the head and reached Bangor. Ashore we headed for a pint or two of Guinness.

Ireland

Wednesday 4th May 2016

Irish Dolphins

Our little visitor

Mark hoists the Irish courtesy flag

We set sail from the Scillies at midnight into a starlit night, the sea full of foam from the swell breaking heavily on the rocks.  The wind was southerly 17-25 knots and we made good speed under main and genoa, driving through a sea of phosphorescent stars.  A few ships passed heading for Liverpool, and I had to call one at 5 miles to check that he had seen us, as we were on a collision course.  He obligingly turned to starboard to give us a mile clear astern.  Dawn came and the day passed with few excitements and little wildlife, until we approached Ireland, when gannets and gulls appeared,and dolphins came to play. 

A small land bird crash-landed on board for a rest, but was soon off again. Then as evening fell, the weather went grey and mizzly as we entered Cork harbour, passing The Roches lighthouse to starboard.  In the river the tide was ebbing hard, creating overfalls.  

Pete and Paul sailing into Cork Harbour

We moored at the Royal Cork Yacht Club, and went ashore to a well earned pint of Murphys, and a club curry supper joining jovial race crews who had just been out for the first time this season. 

Thursday 5th May 2016

Ben Russell visited us and we enjoyed catching up and admiring his amazing photos.  Then over to look over Nick Russell's boat, Rogue Trader, looking great in her new dark blue paint.  On deck her 54 feet gives a huge deck space,and below is spacious.  Nicks craftsmanship is evident in beautiful oak doors , but there's a huge amount of work to to before she is ready to set sail to the Canaries to join the ARC in September!  We lunched in Conors, a very picturesque pub full of a fascinating jumble of artefacts, and then bade farewell to Ben.

Rogue Trader

At 5pm we slipped our mooring to catch the last favourable wind, and set off north towards Waterford.  The wind was perfect for the Parasailor and we were delighted to be making 6 knots in 9-10knots of wind.  

The Parasailor drawing well

 
The sun set and the wind went round, and by midnight we were making 8-9 knots under full sail.

Friday 10th May 2016
Having assessed the 12 miles upstream to Waterford, I altered course for Kilmore Quay which was just 15 miles further on.   We arrived at 04:30, inside the Saltee Islands and lined up the leading lights for the harbour entrance, crabbing across the tide to keep them in line.  Then into a narrow entrance and a hard turn to starboard past fishing vessels to find an easy berth.  We were all made fast by 05:00 and hit the sack for a long sleep.

Once up and around we walked the coast path to the Memorial Garden, where many lives lost at sea are inscribed.  Further along the road we were drawn by a ruined castle, but on getting there it was clear that a farmhouse had grown up to incorporate it.

Back in the village, the few thatched houses are reputed to give it a chocolate box air, but this eluded us.  The Kehoe Inn delivered Guinness and sailing memorabilia, and The Little Saltee provided fish and chips.   Mark later produced a green Thai curry which we enjoyed before spending the rest of the evening poring over charts and almanacs trying to plan ahead.

Exploring Scilly

Sunday 1st May dawned in The Cove with Tin Tin bumping slightly on the sandy bottom, as the wind had shifted round to bring us into shallower water at low tide. However we were soon off again, and after breakfast set off under sail to explore the rocky channels through to Tresco. We headed out of The Cove into a foggy grey landscape through which jagged rocks could dimly be seen. Luckily visibility cleared enough to follow the leading marks through Smith Sound, past the rocks of Great Smith. We then picked up a back transit to The Old Lighthouse, a barely visible white tower in the fog, lined up wit ha black stripe on a white wall built for the purpose of guiding ships in safely. They should have put a black stripe on the lighthouse too!from the re we reached the Steeple Rock buoy and turned onto a bearing of 60 degrees lining up Yellow Rock with a Monument on Tresco, which took us safely past various reefs by Mincarlo and Bryher Castle Rock until we passed between Bryher and Samson to reach New Grimsby Sound. We sailed up past Hangman's Rock and Cromwell's Castle and out round Kettle Rock into Old Grimsby Harbour. Kyle was at the helm, and unfortunately caught a lobster pot round the rudders, which held us fast, until Mark reached down to his arms length and demonstrated the sharpness of his new Gerber clasp knife!

Ashore at The Ruin Cafe we had a delicious lunch from the wood fired oven, thanks to Beccy and Kyle. From there we walked across to the other harbour, and then round to Cromwell's Castle and up the hill to the ruins of King Charles Castle and back to the boat. The mooring was getting rather swelly, so we motored back round to New Grimsby for a peaceful night at mooring.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Circumnavigating Scilly

Monday 2nd May was windy and grey, but we headed ashore to the little sandy harbour at New Grimsby fully clad in sailing gear and lifejackets, tying up to the curved stone harbour wall.

 It was great to stretch our legs along to Tresco Abbey gardens, where we relished the exploration of a rich luxuriant foliage, fascinating plants, rocky terraces and old abbey ruins.

Tin Tin anchored off Old Grimsby Harbour

Amazing plant life on Tresco!

Becky & Kyle at Tresco Abbey gardens

Old stone quorns used for grinding corn were still easy to move.

The Old Abbey ruins

Having enjoyed a pasty lunch, we found that the sun was coming out, and our walk back to the harbour was delightful as the water changed to Bombay Sapphire blue.

Mark and Paul climbed to the monument where we had a spectacular view across the Western Isles and the anchorage between Bryher and Tresco with Tin Tin lying calmly at mooring.

New Grimsby Harbour

Meanwhile Kyle and Beccy were foraging for wild food, coming back with a bag full of rock samphire, sea spinach, wild three-cornered leeks, wild fennel, and pennywort.

The sand bar between St Agnes and Gugh

St Agnes Lighthouse

Back on board the view up New Grimsby Sound was impressive with large breaking seas on the northern entrance. We set sail and headed north and into the Atlantic, heading up past Round Island and then turning downwind in swells that reached 3 metres high. We passed close inside Chimney rocks and then along the northern coast of Great Ganilly, where large numbers of seals on the rocks raised their heads, and many more in the water popped up and stared at us. At one end of Great Ganilly is the little craggy island of Nounour, on which a large hoard of Roman jewellery was found. What were they doing there? Was it a shipwrecked crew?

Then we headed into Crow Sound and past St Marys Harbour. The Southwesterly was making it very rough and the moored yachts were tossing violently. So we headed on round to the sheltered Porthcressa Cove, which was deserted and had a dozen substantial moorings in flat calm sheltered water. We toasted our trip in gin and tonic and Kyle and Beccy produced a lovely supper based on their wild harvest.

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com

Torquay to the Scilly Isles

Friday 29th April 2016
With Rebecca and Kyle on board we cast off at 10:00, after breakfast, into squally rain showers, and by 13:00 were abeam Start Point. The tide was against us and it took ages to fight into the westerly wind past Salcombe. Eventually we could tack in towards Plymouth to seek calmer waters, but shortly afterwards the wind began to veer towards the North and I tacked to lay a course for The Lizard. We were visited several times by harbour porpoises which came to play with us. As well as guillemots and gannets we saw several swallows flying low over the water heading for Britain. The wind was very cold and despite thermals and ski gear under our sailing suits, we got chilled easily. This wasn't helped by keeping the sprayhood down for greater speed and visibility.  Eventually Mark found a better sail trim, with a bit of reef in the main and genoa and we picked up speed nicely too make 7-9 knots in the right direction.
Supper of mushroom tortellini and bolognese sauce was served to the crew in the cockpit by Paul, who then didn't much feel like eating anything. Mark and Kyle took the first night watch from 1930 to 2300. .

Saturday 30th April 2016
Beccy and Paul took the second watch and by 2 in the morning we were racing along in fairly flat water past the intensely bright flash of the Lizard light, under a clear starlit sky. The moon startled us by appearing as bright orange triangle astern, as it rose. At 03:00 Mark and Kyle came on watch took over till 7am when the Scillies were just an hour ahead, clear in bright sunlight. We sailed into The Cove between Agnes and Gugh, and at 09:40 on Saturday 30th April anchored in 3 meters of crystal clear light blue water on sand. We had sailed 143 miles in 23 hours and 30 minutes. Just one other yacht in the bay with us. Very peaceful. The sand bar joining the islands sheltered us from the NW waves, and breakfast was a civilized affair in hot sunshine at the cockpit table.


We then set about getting ashore only to find that we had neglected the dinghy, which was without oars, and the outboard which hadn't been serviced and wouldn't start. :-( Paradise denied! Mark and Kyle worked on the engine, cleaned spark plugs etc, but it still wouldn't go. So we built a paddle from a boat hook and a plastic chopping board and went ashore to The Turks Head, where we enjoyed a pint and a bite of lunch. Tame thrushes came to watch us eat. Out in the bay we were amazed to see over 100 Scilly gigs massing for a race to St Marys and back. What a sight!

After lunch I decided to head to St Marys to get the outboard fixed. However Mark suggested that I try the outboard myself, and he was amazed when it burst into life. My secret? I turned the fuel tap on! So instead we headed back ashore for a long walk round the amazing rocks and little lanes. Back on board Beccy & Kyle excelled themselves by going in for a (rather brief) swim (11 degrees C).

----------
radio email processed by SailMail
for information see: http://www.sailmail.com