Fresh easterly & Fiskardo.

The forecast F5-6 easterly was less of a problem in the crowded anchorage than I'd anticipated. The dockside was better protected from wind and waves and so we took our time to get breakfast from the bakery. Then a large catamaran decided to squeeze in next to us, so we made a swift exit, our only problem being that we caught the starboard rudder on the neighbour's anchor chain as we pulled out. Luckily I was able to bow thrust to starboard to swing the stern the opposite way while reversing up until the chain dropped off and we were free.

Then we set a Genoa for a nice sail down wind to three north etc top of Ithaca and motored into a large bay against katabatic gusts which were tearing spray off the wave tops. Close to three beach we found calm and about 25 anchored yachts. We joined the throng for a swim and lunch while rolling to the NW swell. Then headed south looking for a place for the night, but at 14:00 decided to head over to Fiskardo. Here we anchored with an onshore wind alongside a swim area and told our lines to the rocks for when they wind changed 180 degrees tonight. There's a lovely swimming beach with deep shade under a big tree and we played there for three afternoon leaving the parents to rest. I met a couple of a Sunseeker 75, "Oneiro" both with very broad accents from the Midlands. Their boat was new in May. They had two crew running it and had their daughter on board. I asked if they were retired but both seemed to be working in one way or another using satellite communications to keep in touch while it was too windy to do anything else.
Later we tried to motor the dinghy into town but were foiled when the E-Propulsion outboard wouldn't work. But we rowed back to the beach and strolled into the buzz of Fiskardo to find a table for supper.
I had Kefalonia Meat Pie which was substantial!

I also went to the Chandlers (where I'd bought our yellow shore lines) and bought two Rat Stoppers for our shore lines and a rat trap for any invaders. Plus flip flops and super glue to mend my sunglasses

A day in Koini

We woke after a peaceful night at anchor, despite worries about any remaining rats on board. However the cup cakes left on deck and in each cabin showed no sign of being nibbled so we assumed that we are free of the invaders. Nonetheless I feel both sad at the barbarous killing and awed by the extraordinary skills of these two intrepid adventurers.

It's not possible that they had ever done it before. Nor could they have learnt from their forebears who, if successful, would have sailed to new lands or, if not, would have died in the attempt.

So they relied on their exploratory instincts to range around on the jagged rocks, discover a big green strap with a yellow rope attached. It's likely that they had encountered these before and had perhaps witnessed other rats setting off to clamber along the swaying rope. But the rope dips into the water periodically but floats so they can continue the adventure. Then they encounter an obstacle. On some lines there is a big black rat-proof barrier which is impassable. They return the way they came.

But that night there was only a plastic bottle, cut to go over the rope. A bit of scrabbling and it fell into the water, giving access to the new experience of exploring Tin Tin. One team member explores the deck while the other leaps down the companionway steps, pauses to leave two droppings and then starts to investigate the saloon. All the food is stored in plastic boxes or cupboards, but there are interesting crumbs and enticing smells. It seems that they have found a perfect goldmine.

A quick circuit at floor level and they find a portion of soft damp wood under the sink. Perhaps this is a good way in ? So they start gnawing at the soft wood, building up a pile of chippings on the galley floor. It's dark and there are the sounds and smells of humans here, sleeping, snoring and snuffling. It's important to find a safe place before sunrise. But they cannot gain entry through the wood.

Up on deck there are good places to hide; in the anchor locker, beneath the spinnaker bag or under the spare dinghy. In the saloon there is a warren of hiding places under the table where a lot of bags and boxes are stored. So far so good.

Then day breaks and it's wise to hide until all the human activity stops. The sun eventually hides again, it gets dark and the humans are quiet. Time to explore again - but Oh No! The rat on deck is spotted. Immediately two large humans start chasing it. Hide in the anchor locker. Despite every attempt at escape they beat it to death.

Down below the remaining adventurer hears thé frantic calling of its mate and the thudding of sticks. It hides until all is quièt. But there is a human sitting there silently when you eventually risk coming out. It doesn't stir but you know there's a problem when it calls out "Matt! Come quick. There's another one here!"
Then the terrifying hunt begins and no matter what you try, all the boxes are pulled out from under the tables. You leap up to try to get out of a hatch but it's too high. You try to hide in space behind the chart table but they find you. Suddenly you are pinned to the log book by a net and one of the humans smashes your brains out with a stick.

All your adventurous spirits and ingenuity brought to a horrifying end. No lessons passed on to future generations. But others will succeed on other boats where you have failed.
Persistus rattus. Per barca ad futura!?

Having got that sad perspective off my mind, we set off early in calm weather to motor to the pretty village of Koini, having breakfast en route as we pass the precipitous mountainsides, tiny coves and occasional lonely yachts. One superyacht has bagged a cove to itself and set up a little set of loungers and beach umbrellas for the guests (who have yet to get out of bed) to get thrilled at when they emerge.

As we approach Koini there are encouraging numbers of catamarans leaving and, as we pass the little church on the promontory and then the three windmill towers, it's apparent that the mass of yachts is beginning to stir and leave harbour. It's 10:30. We approach a nice slot in the line of yachts at the quay, drop 20 metres anchor in about 5metres of water and find a good hold as we arrive at the quay. Soon tied up we have arrived.

We have a lovely day at the village with swimming at a little pebble beach, elevenses, lunch and supper at dock-side tavernas and souvenir hunting for the children. Very sweet that Felix chose a gemstone olive tree decoration and we later discovered it was for his parents.

Sadly Matt came down with a temperature and painful stomach after lunch (he chose moules which were served without shells - struck me as dodgy)

Meanwhile Felix excelled with hunting marine life, catching crabs and a sea centipede and finding a a little moray eel in the harbour wall! Marlowe is very happily drawing and painting, enjoying my watercolour box. She also has a song and dance routine from Greased Lightning which she performs endlessly!

Ithaca, pirates ….or rats?!

Having had the bowthruster problem repaired last night my mind was at ease, so we spent a happy morning in Poros and the children went to the main beach. Later Alice returned to help me bring Tintin round and anchor off to collect the crew.

Next stop Ithaca, an hour and a half motoring at 6 knots over an oily "wine dark" sea as Homer put it. Except that this time it really did seem a deep purple with reflections of the hillsides. The crew slept deeply on deck after lunch, and didn't wake as Anne and I nosed in and out of bays looking for a spot to anchor.

We found a lovely spot in clear blue water in the channel between Ithaca and Perapigadi Island and carried out our first stern to manoeuvre with our new green rock straps and yellow floaty mooring lines. On the event having two 50 metre lines is rather a lot!

We ended up quite close the the shore in about 3.5 metres.
Later the wind picked up from the north through the channel and I was concerned that the anchor might drag. With 35 metres out in 5 metres of water it seemed ok but on snorkelling over I found it had migrated through the sand for about 4 metres. The wind eased and we stayed secure for the night. Cocktails were served before supper and a peaceful night by all.
However I'd read reports of rats coming aboard via the stern lines, and so rigged a plastic bottle on the taught line to deter them. In any case the lines kept dipping in and out of the water so I hoped we were secure.

I woke at 4 am thinking I heard scrabbling and went on deck. No sign of wildlife, and the stern lines were both submerged.

However this morning I came across a pile of what looked like brown breakfast cereal on the galley floor. I swept it up and then realised that it had come from the base of the cupboard where the wood is a bit soft from continuing damp. It had clearly been gnawed at, in an attempt to get access to the interior of the boat. Then Anne found several rat droppings in the steps! What a sinking feeling to find that we had been invaded. Are they still here? Or do they go home the way they came? The plastic rat stopper bottle was no longer present on the stern line……….

Two nights in Poros

From our cosy anchorage in Pessada Bay we motored gently along the southern coast of Cephalonia looking for likely beaches for grandchildren.
The strata are at a low inclination here and headlands jut out to sea with shallow rocky reefs. I took TinTin tentatively close inshore inside the hasards only to find that one was blocking our way. With centreplate up I eased over it, only to catch the starboard rudder on a more prominent rock. Fortunately it did not damage except to take off some antifouling. However it was a suitable reminder that my exploratory instincts sometimes need to be tempered with a touch more caution.

We anchored in a wide expanse of blue shallows off a cluster of boulders for an afternoon swim and then pushed on up three eastern side of Cephalonia to Poros. We had scouted this earlier by car, and anchored just off the main beach in calm conditions for a swim. There's a diving board set in to the cliff which was providing the youth with lots of fun from about 15' up.

Two nights in Poros

From our cosy anchorage in Pessada Bay we motored gently along the southern coast of Cephalonia looking for likely beaches for grandchildren.
The strata are at a low inclination here and headlands jut out to sea with shallow rocky reefs. I took TinTin tentatively close inshore inside the hasards only to find that one was blocking our way. With centreplate up I eased over it, only to catch the starboard rudder on a more prominent rock. Fortunately it did not damage except to take off some antifouling. However it was a suitable reminder that my exploratory instincts sometimes need to be tempered with a touch more caution.

We anchored in a wide expanse of blue shallows off a cluster of boulders for an afternoon swim and then pushed on up three eastern side of Cephalonia to Poros. We had scouted this earlier by car, and anchored just off the main beach in calm conditions for a swim. There's a diving board set in to the cliff which was providing the youth with lots of fun from about 15' up.

When the afternoon breeze got up, the sea got quite rough from the long fetch down the Ithaca channel. So we raised anchor and headed into the port. The harbour master, Spiros, is a busy man and very helpful and friendly. We had to hang for a while until he'd got various charter boats settled and then we laid out about 45 metres of chain and reversed up to the quay. Here we had a pleasant evening shopping at the little supermarket and having a cold drink on the taverna terrace.

We were hot and tired so did without supper but slept well.

Under the flight path of the Immortals

I forgot to mention that Agia Pelagia is at the end of the Cephalonia airport runway, and an endless succession of flights come in just above mast height (and even closer to the tavernas on the cliff top above!)

The ancient Greeks would have had every reason to believe in the Gods as the Immortals roared overhead out of the rising moon.

We'll be back there to meet Alice and family on Friday 26th.

Argostoli to Agia Pelagia 20-21 July 2024

We said farewell to Toby and Jacques on the dock in Argostoli, after a lovely lunch in the New Agora (Cephalonia's Oldest Taverna!?)

Fiskardo

We had a gentle night at anchor under a lovely waxing moon. Then heading north to drop in on pretty little Frikes, with its two windmills guarding the valley.

Wind; fast sailing but difficult mooring

We made our way around the north of Meganisi and then south down the long narrow spine of rock cliffs.
We found a number of huge caves and I let Tin Tin drift perilously close to one while the rest of the crew swam in. The cliff overhang was very close to the mast.

Lefkas canal to the inner sea

Preveza is close to the airport, into which several airlines fly daily from London. Toby walked there in 20 minutes to meet Jacques. Once aboard we cast off and had a brisk sail downwind to Lefkas canal. The floating bridge, F/B Santa Maura opens on the hour, so we anchored briefly in the lee of the sand spit until the siren went and the Blue and white barge raised its ramps and rotated to let us through. There canal runs as long way through low lying swamp land and eventually disgorged us into the Ionian Inland Sea. The surrounding hills are thickly wooded and green, with a strip of bare white rock highlighting the water margin above the deep dark waters. 

We sailed down past the forbidden islands of Skorpidi and Skorpios, looking in at Jackie Onassis's beach.  

We found an anchorage for the night in Ambelakia on Meganissi Island I. A little bay with two other boats. Perfect. 

Warfare & Wildlife

After our night in Corfu Anne and I sailed on with Toby down past Paxos where we spent a quiet night in Mongonissi Bay in Paxos and then onwards to Preveza to meet Jacques.

The entrance to Preveza is a dredged canal leading to a large inland sea, famous for hosting Anthony and Cleopatras fleets of warships before they tried to take control of Italy. But Emperor Octavian's fleet bottled them up in the harbour, and when they broke out Octavian waited for the afternoon NW and then sent his fleet racing downwind to attack. Cleopatra broke and ran downwind for Egypt, and Antony soon followed leaving thousands to perish.

It's quite extraordinary to be in a landscape with such ancient and well documented events.

We were lucky to see a big turtle in the inland sea, poking a gnarly head out of turbid greeny brown water to look at us.

Then on to our reserved berth in Cleopatra Marina. It has hundreds of dry berthed boats on land and a relatively small wet marina, mostly catering for dry berth clients coming in and out. There was a brisk cross wind blowing and a current through the berths as we reversed in. The Marinero in his RIB indicated the last remaining berth which looked about half the width of Tin Tin. I kept a straight line as we eased our stern into the slot and then had to reverse hard to try to squeeze the neighbouring boats apart. Much squealing of fenders and then we were in there jammed fast. I was surprised to get a round of applause from nearby onlookers.
At the office I was mindful of my duty to get my bew Transit Log stamped, but no, that would have to be Port Police in town across the river. It didn't happen.
The Marina laundry facilities accommodated three machine loads at the same time. Shopping for fresh food was a little less successful - no salad stuff today.

That night Toby reported that cats had come on board via the gang plank and peered down at him through his hatch. I was minded of rats boarding ships and to my surprise met a man in the Chandlery who was buying rat stoppers for his shore lines. Later the next day I read that rats are a real problem in Ambelakia on Meganisi, where people have left litter and rubbish on shore, and rats have been known to make their way on boat via the ropes!

Clearing into Corfu from Croatia

This is supposed to be simple intra-Schengen process, since I had already cleared into Europe in Croatia. 

• 18:00 Anchored in 5m on sand and weed in Ormolu Gorítsas N. of Corfu Castle. Along with 50 other yachts. 
• 18:30 Dinghy ashore to NAOK Marina and flagged down a taxi to the Port Authority €15 (too far to walk!)
• 18:45 I met the nice woman officer who I'd spoken to on the phone yesterday.  She checks my papers;

• Ship Registry 
• Insurance (with Greek translation)
• Crew list.  I had to write it out again as mine showed two deleted crew who left in Croatia 
• Online application for TEPAI and proof of payment of €476.52 for 4 months.   Payment was made on Friday still not resulting in approved paperwork by Sunday evening, but I think she let me go once she saw the bank statement. 

• 19:00 I am given a form to get stamped at Customs and Passport control (why passports? We are already in Schengen!) 
• Then I had to walk about a 500m round the docks to another pink building to see Customs. Very hot at 35C!
• 19:10 Two scrappily dressed young men with faint new moustaches and menacing eyes barred my entrance to Customs: I assume they are secret police. 
• I got in to see lots of uniformed Customs officers hanging around with nothing to do as there was no ferry arriving. But they refused to help me and told me to go round to the departures side, where people were gathering slowly to get on a ferry to Albania. 
• 19:25 It wasn't clear what I should do so I went back round and asked them again.   "You must wait sir, just wait. We will come to find you when we are ready."
• 19:30 So back to departures, where mercifully it is air conditioned, there are seats and a little cafe shop, where I buy a bottle of water (and an ice cream) to cool down. 
• 20:00  I'm very aware that the offices close at 9pm.  I can sense that I'm not going to make it today because I still have to get back to the port authority to get the Transit Log stamped.
• The passengers for Albania all go through Passport control. 
• 20:15 I linger by the door until they finally let me into see the passport lady.  
• 20:25 she says it's irrelevant to see our passports because we are still in Schengen area. 
• I am told to wait for Customs. There are two men in an office who don't acknowledged me. They look like the two old guys from Sesame Street. 
• 20:30 as the minutes tick by I decide to pressurise Customs by knocking at their door.  "Please wait".  I linger in the doorway. 
• 20:35 I am waved in. 
• I asked for an unlimited Transit Log as our UK flagged boat had been bought VAT paid in France. The official threw up his hands dramatically and told me I'd have to go to Corfu central Customs on Monday. 
• Faced with this I decided that it was easier to go with the normal TL. 
• 20:50 Eventually got the paperwork done after several attempts to email them proof of payment of €467.52 for my TEPAI pass for 4 months. 
• 20:55 Issued with 18 month Transit Log. Requires stamping at every port unlike the other. 
• 20:57 I rush out worrying whet  I can stride round the harbour in time. 
• Luckily there is a taxi waiting which understands the urgency and enjoys driving very fast round the port, back to the Port Authority to stamp my Transit log.
• 21:00 Officially the offices now close, but the door is still open and I'm still hopeful as I rush in. 
• The two male officers are still there, and I greet them cheerfully. But they won't do anything and they phone the English speaking lady officer (who may eventually turn up).
• Meanwhile my taxi meter is running outside! At this rate the England Spain final will be over before I've finished.  It starts at 22:00😳
• 21:05. The official returns and finishes off another yachtsmen's papers. 
• 21:10 Paperwork reviewed. Pay $15. Transit log stamped. I'm told I must now have it stamped by every port authority en route. 
• The other sailor advised that I should have put « Ionian Islands » rather than « Preveza ». Not sure what difference that makes. Beginning to wish that I'd tried to get the unlimited Transit Log on Monday😥
• 21:15 Taxi takes me to town €20
• Meet up with crew and have a large Mythos beer 
• 22:00 Watch the match
• Spain 2 England 1
• Karma 😥🥲

Lazy days in Mljet

We rose early and hired e-bikes for a morning cycling round the extraordinary salt water "lakes" that were visited on foot the previous afternoon. There's a lovely cycle path round there larger one until we came to the bridge across the canal to the sea. It's quite a challenge for bicyclists especially aged people pedalling e-bikes, as there are steep steps down to the river then a steep climb up over the ridge, albeit with bike wheel channels. Lots of effort and pushing all rewarded by a cool swoosh through the channel under the bridge.

Korčula to Mljet; The island of Honey (Miel)

My alarm went at 6am, but I confess that we slept on for a bit. When we rose in the early morning sunshine under the dramatic ramparts of the castle we wandered along the promenade to the little public beach where we were soon swimming in delicious cool water.

Then we showered and set off around the castle walls to find a little restaurant for breakfast, shaded by cypress trees overhanging the blue water of the Adriatic. The old city of Korčula  is an island attached to the main island by an isthmus. Its walls and turret made it impregnable to pirates or other attacks.

The street plan is simple with a spine street running the length of the little island, passing the Basilica at the top, with regular side streets laid sideways to the water on each side. Interestingly, the design is such that the western streets are in strange lines to take advantage of the cooling mistral wind from that direction, but the streets on the eastern side are subtly curved so that there is no direct view down them, and they resist the cold winds from the east that would otherwise blow through in winter

The Basilica was shut when we got there before 9 o'clock, but Anne found a side door open and she and I entered the gloomy interior which was lit by a beam of sunlight cast through a small window above the alter. A nun inf her white habit and black headgear entered shortly afterwards to open the church and I rather like the picture of her Port in that beam of light from the window higher above. Above the order is a grand painting by Jacopo Tintoretto which came to life when the nun switched on the lights.

By the time we had made the circuit of the castle, and enjoyed our breakfast, all the super yachts had left leaving Tin-Tin in splendid isolation on the long white limestone dock below the Castle walls. We soon had the 55 m of chain back on board, thanks to Anne's work to make it lie in the chain locker successfully, and set off towards the ancient monastery on the nearby island (where we had spent some time with Richard last year). 
From there our course took us almost directly to the island of Mljet. After 18 miles motoring into a light headwind we were entering the harbour of Pomona, which is superbly protected by an outer ring of islands. I found out that there is a National Park fee of €100 for a boat but that this is waived if one is moored at a restaurant, or Konoba. Therese a long row of these in the harbour and after phoning around I eventually found Konoba Rogir  (which means fisherman)  was not fully booked and reserved a slot. With help from the staff we were soon made fast stern-to the restaurant at 24:00.

We had time for a late lunch before we set off to explore the National Park. As we lunched a succession of mid-sized cruise ships arrived, one after the other, with fenders out, and proceeded to raft us until there were nine abreast on the quay. It was obvious they were about to discharge a large number of tourists who would want to do the same thing as we did, but we were a bit too tired to immediately get up and walk into the park.  Inevitably once we arrived at the ticket office there were hoards of tourists gathering around their guides, or renting bikes to get up to the park. We considered abandoning our visit until the following morning, but decided in the end to continue, and I'm very glad we did.  For tickets of €25 each, we got access to the park and access also to golf cart transporter around the lakes and solar pound electric fairies on the lakes as well. There was a 20 to 30 minute walk uphill on broad stone steps to the crest and then down the other side where we found the spectacular little lakes inbred in the cast , landscape. These lakes formed in the limestone cast, linked by many tunnels and underground cabins to fill with freshwater. However, at some point a channel was cut to link them to the sea to get rid of the problem of mosquitoes in these static lakes. We soon came to a small channel between two lakes through which was pouring a fast stream of water as the tires rose.  it was very hot but luckily at that point a golf cart transport with seats for a dozen people came past on the perimeter track and we gratefully got on board to be whizzed around the lake to the departure point for the solar ferry. This took us out to the island of Saint Mary , where there is a Benedictine monastery which has since been through various evolutions and tragedies being a hotel. The interior of the basilica was beautiful and calm out of the heat of the Sun and we lit a number of candles in memory of roof, Audrey, Michael, and my mother Alice. From the monastery we caught a ferry back down the lakes through the wooded hilly countryside until we got to the channel that ran into the little lake where we first started.

Here we went for a delicious swim in the pale blue waters and our way up the channel under the bridge only to be swept magnificently down again by the torrent. Much refreshed we climbed back up the long staircase to the top of the hill and back to the village of Pomona. The sound of cicadas gave way to the sound of distant cheering from football supporters.

I spent some time looking at the options for Justin and Siobhan to re-join us and sail onwards to Greece, factoring in Toby's kind offer to come and help us as crew for that leg.  Then a few steps down the past to the waiting table in the crowded Konoba restaurant where we had a delicious meal as the sun set. 

Mljet; The island of Honey (Miel)

My alarm went at 6am, but I confess that we slept on for a bit. When we rose in the early morning sunshine under the dramatic ramparts of the castle we wandered along the promenade to the little public beach where we were soon swimming in delicious cool water.

Flat out

The harbour was beautiful in the 6am sunshine at Brbinj and Anne and I enjoyed a long swim in the clear blue water along the Rocky shore under pine tree.
We had a breakfast conflab about Justin's painfully inflamed leg, which didn't seem to be improving with antibiotics, and agreed that it needed more medical attention. The choices were a three hour zigzag through islands to Zadar and ten a long taxi ride to facilities in Split, or a fast trip down to Primosten so that it was only an hour by car to the clinic. The latter was chosen so TinTin creamed along at 7.5-7.9 knots at 2000rpm in an almost uninterrupted line through the long lines of offshore islands. No wind so everything mirror calm. En route we had lovely cool breeze and warm sun, enjoyed a great salad lunch prepared by Siobhan, who then spotted the pod of big bottlenose dolphins that live here. We saw some again a few hours later.

The islands must have supported a large population at some time because they are covered with intricate networks of stone walls which are presumably there remains of houses and fields.

A long day south

We were up at 6:30 and away by 7:00, full sail rushing us south at 6:8-7.2 knots. It was overcast and cool and I needed a light fleece to stay warm.

We roared south past there island of Susak, enjoying a sailing tussle with another yacht which so Lee won. Then wind came ahead and we motored on for hours until it finallly came back to help us and we had a rapid passage south to Premuda. We'd made good time to my chosen anchorage arriving sbout 16:30, but I suggested that we push on for an hour to reduce the heat day's passage.

We arrived in Bribnj to find almost the stern-to moorings of our size taken. There were more but the distance between buoy C and rocky shore seemed too close. So we ended up stern-to the quay with another yacht. Slight complications with the bowline getting round the bowthruster, and the "slime line" getting half a dozen turns round the prop, but I dived a couple of times to clear it.
Then a swim
In the delicious waters off the quay, followed by a chat about our Cornish flag with the fruitsellers. This resulted in a decent glass of herbal liqueur while we chatted. "Puna Hvala - Many thanks!"

I had a long chat to the dockside marinero, Ivan. He turned 18 in April and voted for the first time, choosing a comedian candidate who tells it like is, rather than the corrupt politicians. There were an endless stream of little dinghies coming in from anchored yachts and I asked about a table at Antonio's fabled restaurant. Ivan said that he had to dash as he is his father's waiter.

Thence we headed to find that there were only four tables full. Tuna steaks all round except for me with a tender steak FYI KFC b a