Desolate sanctuary at Beveridge Reef

With strong winds gusting 30 knots we arrived at Beveridge reef at 13:00 on Saturday 17th June. Invisible until quarter of a mile away, there was suddenly a line of white surf ahead backed by a vivid slash of aquamarine. At night, unwarned, we would have been wrecked in 5 minutes. As it was I had to gybe in a hurry, and sailed along the line of surf about 100 feet away, until we rounded the northern tip of the reef and entered more sheltered water. We had been given coordinates for an entrance to the lagoon, but it was so rough that I doubted whether we could safely enter. As we motored round the reef just outside the breakers, the sight was dramatic as the strong wind tore the heads off the rollers.

To my surprise I found that the reef was like a short spiral and we curved round into the lagoon through a wide reasonably sheltered channel. Then we motored into the teeth of the gale to an indicated anchorage position just inside the reef, where the water changed from Bombay Sapphire in 12metres to pale aquamarine in 3metres over white sand.

Our anchorage was secure, if a little choppy and buffeted by the endless roar of surf and wind, and we stayed for the night.

Despite the gale we took the dinghy right up to the reef edge to snorkel, and were very glad we did. There was a strong current to fight against, but we were amazed that water was so clear that we could see for hundreds of feet. I saw a reef shark and several new fish, but we soon tired of the battle against the current and went back.

Sadly the vital watermaker has slowed from 90 litres an hour to 30litres. So today Mark is running a full cleaning programme with alkali and acid solutions and we hope to see it restored.

The noise of the surf and the battering of  40 knots of wind are quite exhausting. However it was extraordinary to be able to relax in the vivid blue pool amidst the storm.  The following morning we could see the wreck of a motor boat away to our left, which we had taken for a block of coral last night.

I sat on the transom with my feet in the blue water, sheltered from the wind.  I spotted a little purple bubble float past, but was slow in recognising it as a Portuguese Man O' War, and seconds later another one floated past and stuck to my foot.  The wasp-like sting was OK but shortly afterwards I had a deep pain in my groin as though I had been kicked there and as it rose steadily up I was glad that I hadn't been stung nearer my hearts it felt quite severe.

On 18th June we set sail for Niue, 120 miles directly downwind in this gale, before heading to Tonga. It looks as though this wind will remain unabated for the next week, so it will be a rough ride.   Before we set off we explored up towards the wreck , and then made our exit safely into the calmer seas in the lee of thereof.  However the seas soon built up to be impressive and Julien understandably was anxious about whether we were safe.  But Tin Tin behaved well and "George" steered us along nicely downwind  under genoa alone.  Our top speed for the trip was 15.6 knots surfing down a wave.

We raised Niue on the morning watch and it was impressive to see these hammering the coral cliffs and throwing up great blasts of spray.   Eventually we rounded the second point into Alofi roadstead, which proved very calm with 10 boats at moorings provided by the Niue Yacht Club. I radioed them for advice and was allocated a buoy.   It turned out that a very large yacht nearby had not been asked its size and they had drifted off with the mooring block dangling from the chain. They had driven back onto the ledge, but the mooring buoy was still 5metres below the surface!

Formalities were efficiently arranged at the dock at 14:00.  The dinghy has to be lifted out at the wharf by a crane which adds to the fun!