Exploring Tahuata Island

After our expedition ashore at Motopu Bay we set off round to Hanamoenoa Bay, reputed to be one of the top three in the world by sailing writer Eric Hiscox. (Sorry if I have repeated myself!).
The NW wind had abated and the bay was calmer than when we passed it yesterday.

We followed Oceana I in and anchored in 12m dragging at first and bringing up a whole coral head to my shame.  There were six yachts already anchored, and nine by nightfall. However we were the only ones to brave the surf and head for the great strip of golden sand. Anne swimming, Emily on Dora (her paddle board) and Anne swimming. We picked our waves carefully and landed OK. The beach, backed by palm trees, was spectacular with the mountains rising up behind. Clearly with so many yachts visiting the locals feel invaded.  We didn't venture into the hamlet as there were "Privé" signs.

The following morning after a chilly night we snorkelled round the cliffs which was rather cloudy , but we still saw some lovely fish - electric blue, yellow, zebra.  We then scrubbed the waterline to give a clean look to Tin Tin. Other yachts soon followed suit! Justin kindly scrubbed the dinghy cover too.

I had a happy time sketching the bay before lunch - one of my better ones I feel.

Baie Hanamoenoa, Tahaa Island, Marquesas

Later we set off in sudden rainstorms towards Hataponi Bay.  Here we found a really difficult anchorage on steeply sloping bottom, so that we dropped anchor in 20 metres of water, but with 60m of chain out we were soon in 8metres of water just outside the surf line which was then crashing onto big boulders.

Tin Tin at anchor off the rocks in Hapatoni Bay.

Once secure we went shorewards via a little harbour and met several people including a man on horseback with a wooden saddle.   There were a number of colourful pirogues and a ferry up on chocks called the Tahuata Nui.

Tin Tin outside Hataponi harbour

The waterfront had a promenade called the Royal Road built many years ago for Queen Vaekehu II. It is a massive stone causeway along the seafront reminiscent of that built by Queen Victoria on the Isle of Wight from Osborne House.

The Queen's Road

Wall building

Traditional house with woven mat walls

We came to the church and were greeted by the large pastor in his voluminous white robes attended by parishioners. It was 4pm and they were gathering for Mass at 5:30. The church was peaceful and simple with all the wooden pillars beautifully dressed with palm fronds and flowered. The Virgin Mary had a wonderful necklace of flowers too.

Parishioners gather outside the church before Mass, Hapatoni

Beautifully carved table with games boards.

The altar in Hapatoni church

At the far end the Royal Road peters out into a rough track overgrown with palm and tamanu trees.   Then there's rockfall across it, caused by the careless building of a more modern road above, which ignored the 19th century heritage below. I clambered over and found a faint trail upwards, and after a long scramble we emerged in the lovely garden of an elegant white private house. I met the owner, looking like a castaway in a ripped singlet with his dog at his heels, who introduced himself as DuuDuu. He is the only Frenchman on the island and has built a house to retire there. He told us that his wife lives in Ua Pou - our next port of call.

Once out of his garden, we followed the new track up the hillside along which had been established the Stations of the Cross in simple wooden crucifixes.  We finally reached the big white crucifix on the pinnacle of the Pain au Sucre. Here we had a magnificent view of Baie Hapatoni and the adjacent one, where four yachts had anchored in easier conditions.

At the Pain au Sucre above Hapatoni Bay (Tin Tin in the distance)

The shrine at the Pain au Sucre pinnacle

Back on board, after listening to the sound of singing and drums across the water from Mass, Emily produced a delicious breadfruit curry and avocado lasagne. Breadfruit was a bit like chunks of potato but a little more floury like gnocchi perhaps. Very good and very filling.