ANNE'S Journal of Polynesia: part 1 : the Marquesas.

I am having the most wonderful time sailing with Paul, Emily and Justin on Tin Tin in the Marquesas Islands in the middle of the Pacific Ocean

As I got off the plane in Hiva Oa, the tropical heat and smells hit me. I didn't know what to expect ... I am discovering the most deserted tropical volcanic islands: wild, covered in rich tropical vegetation, forests, banana and coconut groves. When the first settlers came through the gradual migration from south east Asia centuries ago there was nothing edible, so every plant since had to be introduced : predominantly fruit to the Marquesas and vegetables to the Society Islands ... All of which are now prolific with scores of different varieties of each.

The people are quite amazingly welcoming and plying us generously with fruit from their laden gardens and patches with expectation of nothing in return. They are without exception completely open and delighted to stop us, share and chat . Emily and I have enjoyed two different rides on ponies that abound in the Islands. At one time they were the only means of transport, or on foot, climbing over great passes to link communities. Through this and other hikes and two hire jeeps (over very rough tracks) and of course anchoring off bays with tiny communities, we have really explored and learnt a lot leaving a sense of enormous respect for a life still living very much on the edge.

All other produce is eagerly awaited from the monthly visits of the cargo ship Aranui who circulates around all the Polynesian archipelagos from Papeete bringing everything else they need. The "shops" on delivery days are emptied almost immediately of any imported fresh "produce "!  Apples are particularly adored by children, who are desperate for a change from their unlimited supplies of local pamplemousses (giant grapefruit like pomelos) and bananas

I can't quite believe that Paul has sailed all this way from England, and whilst meeting local people it is also astonishing to meet other boats of all nationalities who have amazing stories to tell ... The Marquesas Islands are the first landfall in the long passage across the Pacific after the Galapagos and Panama. Tin Tin has definitely the fastest voyage at sea from leaving "home", whilst many have been at sea for a few years or many more ..... Taking in different passages, different continents and different experiences.

What is amazing is the resourcefulness of every crew. As one pilot guide commented "almost any boat will do!" and that is the case : every shape, size and condition. There are few, if any, boatyards except at the capital Papeete in Tahiti. Crews of all nationalities are congenial and happy to share experience, advice, knowledge and lend or give spare parts, no less than the crew of Tin Tin who are skilful and ingenious in their problem solving and fixing.

Being a fair weather sailor the conditions are bliss. Wherever we are anchored there seems to be a light breeze, but almost every day and night there is intermittent torrential rain (it is the end of the wet season), hence the islands' lushness! If one embraces these downpours, they are a lovely shower to cool by. Walking in the forests or hills though is hot and sweaty and mostly muddy, and everywhere you are beset by voracious mozzies. Nonetheless one is always rewarded by a richness of plant life and views of commanding peaks and hidden bays. Birds are becoming more populous seemingly as we head northwards through the Marquesas Islands from Fatu Hiva to Hiva Oa, via Tahuata to Ua Po to Nuku Hiva. Each island has a small group of indigenous species and a few common ones (esp sea birds). There are no mammals, harmful reptiles or insects except for the pesky "No No" which are vicious invisible sand flies on the beach. I am afraid I have resorted to DEET as the only sure way of avoiding attack. Others have resorted to large consumption of marmite (Brewers yeast, which I had forgotten, does the trick too )

My only other regret was relying on reading the Lonely Planet guide of Polynesia on my Kindle. It is so hard to navigate a guide which isn't a BOOK! Much better to be able to leaf through a pair version!

The history of the French Polynesian islands is extraordinary: 130 islands, of which 76 are inhabited with in some cases just one family. The population (virtually an untouched civilisation ) was gradually obliterated from around 18,000 in 1842 to 2,096 in 1926 (i.e. in only one century!) through disease brought by traders, missionaries, and settlers. It is extraordinary to realise that these people (to us similar to pre-Romans 2, 000 years ago) existed in their purest form so recently in the world's history. There are many many Archeological sites, standing testimony of such a recent "ancient" past. Herman Melville's "Typee" is a great story, evoking life of indigenous people as the first settlers found them (which has been compulsory reading for all of us !) The islands changed hands between the Spanish, Americans, and were finally Annexed to France in 1842 when Melville (of later Moby Dick fame) was there. France takes the usual maternalistic view of its colony.

Now there is a population of 280,000 in total, most who live on Tahiti especially the young, many hoping to make their fortune in the bigger metropolis, thus leaving only 8,000 in the Marquesas and 13,000 in the Tuamotus. The former are still remote and wild, the latter becoming more popular through tourists visiting the clearest and healthiest reefs left in the world, with the idealised coral atolls, palm fringed beaches and 400 species of fish, almost all to be seen by diving or snorkelling.

We are sailing there in the next three hundred miles down wind over the next few days. After a week or so dodging reefs, we will head for the Society Islands (Tahiti and its neighbours ) though there are other archipelagos , and from here to Australia and New Zealand and Indonesia there are thousands of island groups .........

Hahahei Bay

We had rain, rain, rain all night, but thankfully it cleared by breakfast and we had a great bash to windward up the most spectacular coast. Great spires of rock framed by impossibly high cliffs disappearing into cloud, dark rock spines jutting out to sea, sometimes lightly coated with green icing-sugar vegetation, and sometimes bare, dark chocolate.

As we left the drama of Taipivai Bay, a huge tuna jumped clear out of the water ahead, and shortly afterwards a school of dolphins curved past, without bothering to investigate us.

The wind was blowing 28-33knots from the ENE so we were close hauled with double reefed Genoa, tacking out south east before we could tack to clear the northern headland. Once past the point we eased sail, and picked up speed. Another pod of very large dolphins joined us, enthusiastically leaping clear of the waves to view us.

We finally turned into Hahahei Bay, guarded on the left by what seems to be a giant troll's head with helmet spikes of black rock. At the far end of the bay a Giant's Castle of spikes loomed high above a little waterfront village. The sun came out and the sky was blue and the boat was draped in washing, most of which has had innumerable rinse cycles in rain storms. We went ashore in the dinghy to a little pier where we managed to lap ashore between the surge of the swells. Everyone except me wore long trousers and long-sleeved shirts because the sailing directions say that it is teeming with mosquitos and nouns. Last week Emily's nono bites were a shocking revelation of what invisible insects can do!

Tin Tin in Hahahei Bay

Walking into the village

The village was very charming, set along the waterfront with a little shop, a yellow post office and Yvonne's Restaurant. The latter is reputed to be the best in the island, so we booked a table.

Determined to find the local archaeological site, Justin and Anne set off up the road out of the village and we eventually found what we wanted. It was a very large Marae, or sacred ceremonial site, with a large flat area of grass bounded on the long sides by terraces of stone for spectators. At the far end a stone plinth was where human sacrifices were displayed, and beyond that a higher platform was where the chief and dignitaries would be housed. It was very extensive, having been built in 1250AD, remaining in use till the 1800s. It was rediscovered in 1957 and rehabilitated in 1987.

Emily admires the hibiscus hedge

Exploring the ancient sites

Back in the village as the sun set, we enjoyed supper with Yvonne, an elegant elder lady who had set up her restaurant in 1978. She had us four and two others tonight and served very good fish dishes with breadfruit and other vegetables.  She is also the mayor of the village.

Our return to Tin Tin was along the track to the port, which was lit periodically with street lamps. Nonetheless the walk involves wading across a river and sloshing through thick mud. At the dock a man was fishing and his wife was gutting their substantial catch.

The famous valley of Typee, Nuku Hiva

Herman Melville, of Moby Dick fame, spent time in Nuku Hiva having jumped ship and been kept prisoner by a tribe. His book, Typee, is an exciting novel based on his adventures here, and as is set in the next valley along from Taiohae in in Taipivai Bay. We've all read his story and as soon as our anchor problem was solved we set sail in that direction.

The bay is divided into three inlets by high rocky ridges. As we doused sail, a black cloud rolled down and the sea hissed white with torrential rain. We dropped anchor in 5 metres in the muddy flood of coconuts and tree debris washing down fro the valley. In a strange way it could have been a Scottish loch, with the high ridges swirling with mist, and dropping steeply to the water.

Tin Tin in Taipivai Bay - the setting for Typee

Our route through the Marwquesas to M Nuku Hiva

So cold did we feel that we used Rosalind's wonderful pressure cooker to brew up a nice hot "Lake Soup" for lunch, which it does miraculously quickly.  It is basically lentil soup, (carrots, onions, lentils and a bay leaf) but our family name for it derives from the days when Mark and I grew up in Malawi. Our family cook, Asafa, produced this soup every time the family arrived home tired and sunburnt from a weekend at Lake Malawi. Hence Lake Soup.  It gets augmented with herb dumplings from time to time too. Delicious!

The thatched ceremonial Marae

After lunch we clambered ashore on a rocky breakwater and waded through muddy tracks to the road, seeing lots of land crabs along the way. A "drift", still above water, crossed the raging brown river to the village where we inspected the church and chatted to various passers-by. The church was a huge open space under a high roof with no pillars. The side walls are waist high giving ventilation and some light. The pulpit was a large tree bole nicely carved.

Roaring brown river

Up the street we found a little shop and bought tubs of local ice-cream including a dark purple one called Taro, which is a yam-like tuber. Very nice. On our way we met Roy and daughter Lisa from yacht Mabroukha exploring in a hire car. The rain set in hard again and the road became a river, everyone getting drenched except for me with my handy brolly. We waded across a field to inspect a large ceremonial Marae, nicely recreated with thatched ceremonial houses in stone platforms, surrounded by carved Tikis.

Land Crabs & Tikis

Anchor's aweigh!

A day of unceasing torrential rain! Lots of hanging around - all getting rather tedious........BUT when Thierry the diver turned up he did a great job and unwound the chain from the old ship's anchor and we were able to move the boat to a safer spot. It was amazing to see him disappear into the thick brown murky river flow, full of floating debris, and then to see a circle of clear water where his bubbles brought the underlying seawater to the surface. Of course the freshwater is less dense and formed a 1 meter thick layer on top of the bay.

Then Kevin from Yacht Services kindly cane out to look over the freezer, stuck a bit of gas in it and concluded that the wiring installed was insufficient for the length of run involved leading to a voltage drop. Something for later. We started on an oil change for the generator, but then found bilges full of seawater so had to pump that out and worry about where it came from.

Anne and Emily did a great job ashore taking all our Jerry cans to refill. We had emptied all 200 litres into the tanks and calculated that we'd need to put another 200 in as we should have been nearly empty. Astonishingly there was only room for another 20 litres so our fuel consumption seems much lower than I'd thought.

Finally we are able to set off again tomorrow to explore a bit more of these islands before heading off to the atolls.

Imprisoned in Nuku Hiva!

I'm sad to say that we cannot leave this lovely island. Was it anything to do with the picture that I put up showing Nuku Hiva as one of the 50 worst places to visit?!

This morning, once the torrential rain had cleared, and we'd emptied the dinghy, we went ashore for fresh vegetables before heading off to another bay. I headed to the Post Office for stamps and to post my Custom declaration to Papeete. One has to take a number and wait on benches, which I did serenely for the best part of an hour. It being French, people kiss each other on both cheeks as a greeting. I got included at the end of the line, when Sabine, the equestrian lady came in, as she had given me a lift to the plateau yesterday when Anne and Emily went riding.

That was a good expedition because Justin and I were almost 3000' above sea level and had a delightful walk back down the road amongst ancient acacia forest wreathed in mists. At the lip of the cliff we had extraordinary views of the bay far below and then set off down the hairpin bends to the port. On the way I sat to sketch, sheltering under my new Chinese rainbow umbrella, first from the roasting sun and then from the torrential rain.

So back to our unfortunate detention on the island. As we raised anchor to leave there was an awful clunk as the chain locked solid around something. We tried circling it, pulling pushing - everything! But we are stuck fast with 45 of our 65 metres of chain out in 11-12 metres of frothy cappuccino river spate.

Luckily Nuku Hiva has a yacht services company and by the end of the day it looked as though they had found at least one diver who could try to get us free tomorrow morning! Whilst I spent the day on that and other issues the rest of the crew went off to explore.

I was pleased to find that Kevin of Nuku Hiva Yacht Services is also able to deal with freezers, so tomorrow we will tackle that issue as well.

Nuku Hiva - a gentle stroll around the bay

It took us some time to get ashore this morning as a tropical rainstorm came in just after a sunny breakfast. It half filled the dinghy with fresh water!

However once ashore we had a hot sunny day and, as always in a new place, we were soaking up all the new sights. The bay curves in a full horseshoe, and we set off to walk along the sea front, from one side to the other. It was Sunday, so we didn't expect much to be open, but the only visible shop was in fact open and able to sell us eggs.

There was a fine archaeological site on the bay, restored as part of a Marquésan festival of culture, with great stone platforms, carved Tikis of warriors as a copy of a house.

We then gate crashed an inter-island school Pirogue competition, with boys and girls competing in long outrigger canoes, paddling at a great pace across the bay and back, with wild - of encouragement from their colleagues on shore.

Sketch of Taipaivai Bay, Nuku Hiva

Sketch of Taipaivai Bay, Nuku Hiva

Onwards we walked past pick-up trucks drawn up in the shade of trees fringing the bay, with coolers of blue Hinano beer cans and music on the car sound system.

We had heard there was a café at the far end of the bay, but it was shut. However, higher up the hill we spotted pool-side umbrellas, and when we arrived there drenched in sweat and mud spattered from the road, we were delighted to find our first sophisticated eatery with a little infinity pool overlooking the bay.

It was a very welcome stop for a lovely lunch and cold beer, enabling some wifi time and even a swim for Anne and Emily. Most relaxing !

Walking back we passed voting stations for the French Presidential election with a few posters of Fillon, Marine Le Pen, Mélenchon and Macron. People thought Macron and Le Pen would be the final two candidates. Women seemed to be wanting to vote for Le Pen, with no knowledge of her racist policies!

Nuku Hiva - is this one of the 50 Worst Destinations in the World?

Anne has just shown us a new travel guide to browse. The Fifty Worst Destinations in the World !

It's a shock to find Nuku Hiva in it!  A nasty case of suspected cannibalism in 2011. 

Stefan Ramin, a 40-year-old German tourist visiting the island of Nuku Hiva in the Pacific Ocean, has disappeared and remains believed to be his have been found by a campfire belonging to a tribe accused of being cannibals. 

2011/10/17  Mr Ramin had stopped on the island as part of a sailing expedition with his 37-year-old girlfriend Heike Dorsch last month. He met a guide, Henri Haiti, who took him on a goat hunt – a popular tradition on Nuku Hiva, which is 930 miles north east of Tahiti and close to the equator. But when the guide returned alone he told Ms Dorsch there had been an accident, before allegedly attacking her and tying her to a tree.  Ms Dorsch managed to escape and raise the alarm with local law enforcement, who are now looking for clues as to the guide’s whereabouts while DNA tests are conducted on what are thought to be human remains near a campfire. Among the findings are thought to be human bones, teeth, a skull jawbone and partially melted metal which are believed to be fillings. According to a local news report, Ms Dorsch ‘told investigators that Haiti was trying to lure her into a trap, that it was absolutely necessary she follow him into the forest to help her companion, wounded a few kilometres away’. A German Foreign Ministry spokeswoman said: ‘The foreign ministry and the federal police are aware of the case and in contact with local authorities.’ The tribe suspected of killing and eating Mr Ramin had claimed they gave up cannibalism years ago. Local authorities are investigating but it remains unclear if any tribesmen have been held, or even found. Forensics experts say it could take several weeks to determine if the remains belong to Mr Ramin.

I'm pleased to report that our experience has been delightful so far.

Exploring Ua Pou

Jerome picked us up at 08:00, and we left Emily to go spear fishing with journalist, Alina, on their paddle boards. We collected three Tahitians from the Pension and set off towards Ho Hoi. The other passengers were a young couple who work in air traffic control, and a lady who tours the islands giving careers advice.

Jerome's Toyota 4x4 was worked hard during the day, as the concrete road would periodically turn into a rough slippery track, badly eroded by torrential rain. He explained that this was because the island was all privately owned in radial strips from mountain to sea. If the owner, or more usually entire family, did not agree then the government could not improve the road. He said it was a sign of the intelligence of each family if they had improved the road, as we struggled through some sections and then had easy going on the improved bits.

HoHoi Bay

Down in HoHoi we met a sculptor of the unique Pierre Fleuri stone. Th stone i coloured a bit like tiger's eye and has lovely crystals like stone flowers in it which are lovey when ground to a shine.   Justin said the sculptor looked familiar, and we soon established that we had met his neighbour and cousin, Simon, working stone in the same style in Fatu Hiva. He gave us a demonstration of his technique, and we had the chance to buy some nice small stone tikis in this unique stone. At 27,000 CFP (£197) each it was more than we felt like spending, but we were given some bits of stone and I gave him a London double decker bus key ring as a souvenir of a British visit.

Stone carving workshop at HoHoi

Streams rushing down to the beach

The sculptor's father was the model for the portrait on this 500 CFP note (£3.70)

New Caledonia shown on the reverse of the 500 CFP note

Jerome shows where pigment was ground for tattooing

Anne at the Marae

We got down to the beach where the special Pierre Fleuri stones get rolled down by the river, but failed to find one. The mozzies found me though, whilst I tried to sketch the scene! Finally we visited an archeological site, of a Marae or sacred Chiefs court, getting a really good idea of how it was used, and seeing the well worn stones where adzes were sharpened and where tattooing ink was prepared. A relic of an extraordinary complex society, tuned to its environment, but overturned by foreigners bringing new ways and new diseases. The Marquesans were in danger of extinction but "saved" by foreign settlers who were encouraged to marry in, so that one can see O'Connors and many other European and Asian family names nowadays.

Back in town everyone was voting as today was the first round of the French presidential election. We got aboard and raised anchor and sail and set off the 25 miles north to Nuku Hiva, getting there at sundown.

Ua Pou-The Land of Men

Friday 21st April 2017
Above the little town of Hakahau, the island's dramatic volcanic spires point skywards, occasionally showing tempting glimpses in a dance of the seven veils with the clouds.

Sketches as we approach Ua Pou in rain squalls, and the rock spires through cloud.

On the quay a group of lads cast their fishing lures out across the harbour while steady rain fell. As we ate breakfast there was a steady succession of elated yells from the quay as time after time they each pulled in six flapping silver fish the size of sardines. This went on all day as far as we could see and the shared elation was unstoppable. Into this arena paddled a girl on a stand up paddle board, with a bucket on the board and rod proceeding to catch her share.

It turned out that Alina came from a catamaran and, with her friend Julian, is doing a long term study of the people, customs and life of French Polynesia for a magazine, Geo. They do a repeat survey every five years to monitor and report on change in the region. They had lived for several years on Fakareva atoll, and were able to guide us with lots of local knowledge of the Tuamotus.  Julian had initiated a project to revive the use of sailing canoes tin the Tuamotus, and I'm keen to visit Fakarava if I can to see what he built.  We learnt that Ua Pou is called the Land of Men. As the tourist guide says;  Known locally as Enua Enata (The Land of Men), the remote islands are replete with powerful silhouettes and jaw-dropping scenery that inspired the fascinating legends woven so perfectly with the archipelago’s history that the line between fact and fiction is blurred. 

The harbour at Ua Pou

Ashore the village seemed sparser than others we'd found, but had a big yellow Postes et Telecoms building, a bank, an artisanal centre and a shop. We found that the artisanal centre had a wide range of jewellery, bowls, tikis, and other items for sale from local craftspeople, at prices that mostly seemed unaffordable. However Anne and I chose some black pearl earrings as a memento.

Meanwhile there was a sudden burst of music from the other end of the hall and there was Justin singing along with a long remembered Polynesian boating song whilst a Marquesan man strummed the tune on a beautifully carved ukelele.

Welcome to Ua Pou

The rain had begun to fall very heavily, and we were invited to hurry across the courtyard to the cafe, where a buffet lunch was being enjoyed by locals and visiting yachts folk alike. We soon had plates piled with rice, cooked bananas, poisson cru (raw tuna chunks in coconut milk and lime juice) in three styles, and a very tasty grilled fish and a yummy goat casserole. Outside the water level rose, drowning the road in orange muddy water.

Later when it all stopped, we waded out to find the Post Office shutting its doors at 2pm, so no stamps, and indeed no cash in the ATM. We found the church, with its pulpit carved as a ship's prow, very peaceful inside with three people in silent prayer. Outside we met a goat on a car bonnet, found another general store and bought fishhooks of the type used on the pier. I also found a Chinese made rainbow coloured brolly, which should be useful here, plus a machete. The shop sold me a file to sharpen it, but the shop keeper also offered to take it home and sharpen it himself for me..... so kind!


Our next mission was to track down some transport to see more of the island, and were directed to find Jerome (Jerome. Que? Jerome? - sorry only Two Men in a Boat at present, so rather an unfair literary joke) at a local Pension higher up the hill. En route we met two Swiss yacht crews; Jean-Claude and Françoise in Suditude, who had sailed from Panama down to Easter Island, Juan Fernandez, and then the Chilean fjords to visit Antarctica. The next couple, Tomas and Anya from Ribusta, had recently sailed back up from Patagonia. Very exciting to hear about that!

Here we found a terrace overlooking the bay, very welcome cold drinks and wifi. Jerome's wife turned out to be the Polynesian daughter of DouDou, the sole Frenchman on Tahuata, who we had met at his house there.

Jerome eventually turned up, a compact wiry military looking man, liberally covered with superb geometric Marquesan tattoos. We arranged for him to give us a half day tour of the island and then returned to the boat. Here we realised that we'd forgotten to take our rubbish into town, but a local man, Armand, and his mother, Yvonne, kindly told us to drop it in the back of their pick-up for disposal. Armand is a supervisor at the College Terre des Hommes, which has 200 boys boarding from all over Ua Pou. The youngest start at 6-7 years old but are driven home every weekend. For further education children go to Tahiti which is free, but costs parents the fees of host families, and occasionally to university in France when parents must pay.

We had a rolly night in the anchorage with no wind to hold us head to the swell.

A better photo than I got (courtesy of www.tahititravel.com.au)

Ua Pou

We set off at 5:30 am to sail to the next island, Ua Pou, some 65 miles away. The forecast showed that the wind should fill in from the east, but in the end it never got above 8knots, so we ended up motoring for 10 hours.

It was an extraordinary feeling to be out on the Middle of the Pacific Ocean, and yet to have 4,000' mountainous islands in view all around us, visible at least 50 miles off. Looking aft we could see Hiva Oa and Tahuata, and to our right the little island of Fatu Hulu. Ahead was Ua Pou, and out to starboard was Ua Haka. Amazingly we could also see Nuku Hiva 25 miles beyond Ua Pou.

An extraordinary cruising ground, thousands of miles from anywhere!

As we closed Ua Pou it's colour and topography slowly emerged and as we finally anchored behind a breakwater the clouds swirled a little, revealing enormous black volcanic plugs disappearing and reappearing high above us.

The Stations of the Cross in Hapatoni

We came to the church and were greeted by the large pastor in his voluminous white robes attended by parishioners. It was 4pm and they were gathering for Mass at 17:30. The church was peaceful and simple with all the wooden pillars beautifully dressed with palm fronds and flowered. The Virgin Mary had a wonderful necklace of flowers too.

We followed the Queens Road until it was blocked by a rockfall. I clambered over and found a faint trail upwards, and after a long scramble we emerged in the lovely garden of an elegant white private house. I met the owner, who introduced himself as DuuDuu He is the only Frenchman on the island and has built a house to retire there. Once on the road we were soon ticking off the Stations of the Cross and reached the big white crucifix on the pinnacle of the Pain au Sucre. Here we had a magnificent view of Baie Hapatoni and the adjacent one, where four yachts had anchored in easier conditions.

Back on board Emily produced a delicious breadfruit curry and avocado lasagne. Breadfruit was a bit like chunks of potato but a little more floury like gnocchi perhaps. Very good and very filling.

Exploring Tahuata Island

After our expedition ashore at Motopu Bay we set off round to Hanamoenoa Bay, reputed to be one of the top three in the world by sailing writer Eric Hiscox. (Sorry if I have repeated myself!).
The NW wind had abated and the bay was calmer than when we passed it yesterday.

We followed Oceana I in and anchored in 12m dragging at first and bringing up a whole coral head to my shame.  There were six yachts already anchored, and nine by nightfall. However we were the only ones to brave the surf and head for the great strip of golden sand. Anne swimming, Emily on Dora (her paddle board) and Anne swimming. We picked our waves carefully and landed OK. The beach, backed by palm trees, was spectacular with the mountains rising up behind. Clearly with so many yachts visiting the locals feel invaded.  We didn't venture into the hamlet as there were "Privé" signs.

The following morning after a chilly night we snorkelled round the cliffs which was rather cloudy , but we still saw some lovely fish - electric blue, yellow, zebra.  We then scrubbed the waterline to give a clean look to Tin Tin. Other yachts soon followed suit! Justin kindly scrubbed the dinghy cover too.

I had a happy time sketching the bay before lunch - one of my better ones I feel.

Baie Hanamoenoa, Tahaa Island, Marquesas

Later we set off in sudden rainstorms towards Hataponi Bay.  Here we found a really difficult anchorage on steeply sloping bottom, so that we dropped anchor in 20 metres of water, but with 60m of chain out we were soon in 8metres of water just outside the surf line which was then crashing onto big boulders.

Tin Tin at anchor off the rocks in Hapatoni Bay.

Once secure we went shorewards via a little harbour and met several people including a man on horseback with a wooden saddle.   There were a number of colourful pirogues and a ferry up on chocks called the Tahuata Nui.

Tin Tin outside Hataponi harbour

The waterfront had a promenade called the Royal Road built many years ago for Queen Vaekehu II. It is a massive stone causeway along the seafront reminiscent of that built by Queen Victoria on the Isle of Wight from Osborne House.

The Queen's Road

Wall building

Traditional house with woven mat walls

We came to the church and were greeted by the large pastor in his voluminous white robes attended by parishioners. It was 4pm and they were gathering for Mass at 5:30. The church was peaceful and simple with all the wooden pillars beautifully dressed with palm fronds and flowered. The Virgin Mary had a wonderful necklace of flowers too.

Parishioners gather outside the church before Mass, Hapatoni

Beautifully carved table with games boards.

The altar in Hapatoni church

At the far end the Royal Road peters out into a rough track overgrown with palm and tamanu trees.   Then there's rockfall across it, caused by the careless building of a more modern road above, which ignored the 19th century heritage below. I clambered over and found a faint trail upwards, and after a long scramble we emerged in the lovely garden of an elegant white private house. I met the owner, looking like a castaway in a ripped singlet with his dog at his heels, who introduced himself as DuuDuu. He is the only Frenchman on the island and has built a house to retire there. He told us that his wife lives in Ua Pou - our next port of call.

Once out of his garden, we followed the new track up the hillside along which had been established the Stations of the Cross in simple wooden crucifixes.  We finally reached the big white crucifix on the pinnacle of the Pain au Sucre. Here we had a magnificent view of Baie Hapatoni and the adjacent one, where four yachts had anchored in easier conditions.

At the Pain au Sucre above Hapatoni Bay (Tin Tin in the distance)

The shrine at the Pain au Sucre pinnacle

Back on board, after listening to the sound of singing and drums across the water from Mass, Emily produced a delicious breadfruit curry and avocado lasagne. Breadfruit was a bit like chunks of potato but a little more floury like gnocchi perhaps. Very good and very filling.

Election?! What election?!

I hear that Britain has been thrown into a General Election. Presumably so that Theresa May can win enough seats to drive Brexit legislation through unopposed. Can anyone enlighten us as to dates?

Also the Marquésans are nervous that Trump will bomb North Korea and start World War Three. Glued to French news TV in the Maké Maké Snack Bar, we feel very far away from it all.

Today we went ashore by dinghy and paddle board in Motopu Bay on Tahuata island. It was very hot and as we walked round from the little harbour to the village we spotted a white kingfisher with a black stripe through the eye and beautiful electric blue wing coverts.

Tin Tin under stormy skies, Motopu Bay, Tahuata

The village bungalows are arranged up a long street heading back to the hills. A church offered a lovely cool white interior with many rows of dark wood pews. There was a wonderfully carved dark tree bole with dolphins, fish, and a great turtle supporting the lectern.

Motopu church

The magnificent carved pulpit

the lane down to the harbour

Following the Stations of the Cross above the village 

We walked up through the village passing simple wooden crosses at the roadside. By the time the paved road ran out above the village we had reached the seventh station of the cross. On the dirt track we reached the eighth just as the heavens opened and cool rain drenched us. We turned back downhill and once in the still sunny village we were invited to take all sorts of fruit with us. A huge sack of pamplemousses and breadfruit loads of lines and pommes citaline, which are a citrus tasting m'angoisse fruit which sweetens up when orange.

After lunch we motored off round the north of the island to Baie Hanamoena, rated by pilot book author, Eric Hiscox, as in his top three anchorages in the world. Sure enough everyone else has the same pilot book and by the end of the day here were nine yachts anchored off the beach

As soon as we arrived Emily paddled off towards the breaking surf followed by Anne swimming and me rowing. By judging the wave sets we all got ashore safely for a walk along thé steeply shelving golden sands fringed by coconut groves. Clearly the locals feel a bit beset by visitors here as there was a Propriété Privé sign deterring a wander through the grove.

Back on board Justin dangled a line over the side and immediately landed a large fish. Not knowing what it was we sent it back uneaten.

Tahuata island

This morning kicked off with breakfast of giant grapefruit, or pamplemousse, which is very refreshing and delicious- not too acid or sweet.

Around the harbour dinghies were puttering around, going ashore for provisions or to other boats. Emily had arranged to have our laundry done by Sandra, who runs the Semaphore lookout cafe and wifi spot. Before she arrived I rowed over to Neptunus III to give Erwin and Karena PDF copy of the NOAA tide tables for Polynesia on an SD card. Then ashore with Emily to get the laundry. Whilst waiting I noticed a truck delivering crate after crate of beer which was stacked at the water's edge. I assumed it was for a trip boat, but no.....it was collected by Carl from Alabama, and took two trips in his dinghy! Photo to follow. Carl is sailing his lovely green yawl solo to New Zealand. En route from Galapagos his self steering and autopilot failed, so he had to hand steer the whole way, catching sleep when he could for 20 days!

With laundry aboard (£35 for two Liddle bags full) we upped our three anchors and headed out to sea to explore Tahuata island. The wind was uncharacteristically from the NW, rendering three of the northern anchorages untenable today, so after a brisk sail we returned to a sheltered bay and anchored in time for sunset.

Supper was huge avocados from Therese in Puemau, followed by Justin's excellent pasta dish, and topped off with ripe paw paw and lime.

Sacred sites and Tikis

We left Therese loaded with fruit and drive on to the ancient archaeological site that she owns. Here we. Found great platforms of boulders built into dry stone. Walls atop which carved stone figures or Tikis were holding vigil, under steeply pitched palm thatched shelters with carved wooden poles. This was a marae where the chiefs and warriors would live and hold sacred ceremonies, including yr sacrifice and eating of their captives. I sat and sketched for a while whilst the mosquitoes did their best to suck my blood dry.

Then back home across the winding cliff top trail, but this time enlivened by music from my iPad to ease the trip for the poor passengers

Sunday 16th April 2017
We got Mark safely to the airport at 11:00 fire his 13:20 flight. The cafe serves burgers and chips so he will be alright. We left him to it and dropped back down the road to find the Smiling Tiki. There was a hand drawn sketch map tacked to a mango teee at the roadside and we followed the directions as best we vous down a slippery muddy track Around us the forest trees showed a great variety of shapes and textures. Eventually after a false start we found a little footpath through a banana grove that led us to a marae and beyond the stone terrace we found the Tiki, lit by a shaft of sunlight and leaning a bit. The facial features were clear with large spectacles and a smile. Tiny five fingered hands lurch the belly. He stands only. 3' tall but definitely has mama, or presence.

After lunch we left emily in peace and drove for 7kms on a good road to Taa'oa where we found Sunday afternoon at he beach in full swing with two pétanque courts in action, children in the surf, and families picnicking. There were several outrigger canoes on the shore which I set about sketching.

Exploring Hiva Oa

It was a joy to be at the wheel of a big 4x4 pickup, and we set off to explore the island, heading north towards the airport on one of the two roads out of town. It was cloudy and threatening rain. The road past the airport took us along the plateau between confiera smelling delicious in the damp cool air. We reached a roundabout, with Give Way and Keep Right signs, but no signposts to anywhere. Using a faint map in a Kindle version of the Lonely Planet Guide we took the first exit and a hundred yards later were on unpaved road, rattling and bouncing along. The track took is high up to cross the pine of the island, where the clouds cleared enough for some spectacular views.


The we descended northwards some times finding a shot section of concrete road which was much appreciated as a break from the jolting. The slopes of the mountains are thickly forested with banana trees and mangoes appearing occasionally near someone's home the terrain is steep and heavily eroded into precipitous ravines, so often the road descends the spine if a ridge with land dropping steeply away either side. Then a series of hairpins twist down the steepest ridges with vertiginous drops and no safety barrier.s. The rain makes the road very muddy in places, or erodes it away in gullies demanding a lot of concentration to keep the car safely on track.

Eventually we dropped to sea level on the northern coast and passed little hamlets with well tended gardens and bungalows. After climbing a few more ridges and dropping through more valleys we reached Puemau. Where we Aled directions to the archaeological site of Iipona. Payment of 300 cup per person is made to Thres at the snack bar and here we paused to have a drink and admire her herb garden. She enjoyed our interest and invited us to come to her house to pick fruit and be introduced to her eels! Truly! The track to her house dips through a stream, and here she cracked an egg to call the eels. Immediately theee was a disconcerting writing of snuous forms up the splashing Stream and eels as thick as your arm were competing to get the eggs. Therese then kindly loaded us with fruit from the heavily laden tees in her garden, using a net on a long pole to pull down avocados, giant pamplemousse, ramburans, lines and another citrus like fruit called Vii

Mark flies out to The Wedding

Mark going for a morning row in Hiva Oa before flying out from Jacques Brel airport to Nuku Hiva, and a 40 hour flight back to the UK.

HAVE A GREAT WEDDING!

Car Hire - Marquesan style

I rang the car hire number at 07:00 as directed by George to catch the man before Good Friday Mass, but they couldn't provide one. So I called Georges at the Relais Moehau who gave me a number for taxi lady, Freda, who agreed to collect me at 08:30. Mark and I went to the gendarmerie but discovered that I needed ALL the crew plus Anne. So we arranged to return at 15:00.

Walking down the street to find our taxi I asked a lady coming from the Mairie where I could find car hire. She introduced me to her driver, Pive, who was naked to the waist and had a necklace of gigantic boars fangs endangering his jugular. He called across the street to a passing car and introduced me to Florence, a charming young woman with a frangipani flower behind her left ear (not available!)

We negotiated a price for three days and within ten minutes she had returned with a contract, taken the cash, and left me her Mitsubishi 4x4 pickup. Brilliant!!!

So now I am master of a growling, rattling vehicle which has safely negotiated the hairpins up to the plateau to the airport, where I am now waiting for Anne's plane to arrive. There are two dark wood check-in counters, a single pitch of corrugated roof covering a tiled floor, a little cafe and a few benches. Very accessible! The cafe seems to be doing good trade in burgers and chips.

It feels great to be able to drive, especially after our hot sweaty walk into town from the port last night.

Hiva Oa

We arrived in the little harbour at Hiva Oa and a couple up on the lookout on the point waved excitedly at us, and I guessed they were Martin & Ella from Acapella who we had encountered mid-Pacific. On the way in we recognised the names of several other yachts from the Puddle Jump Net roll call. I left Mark to manoeuvre for anchoring but it proved difficult to get a good hold. I rowed a stern anchor out several times, and in the end spent a happy time going from yacht to yacht meeting people while Mark had a hard time finding a safe place amongst the tangle of boats and stern lines. Eventually we settled, and as darkness fell determined to walk the mile into town to find supper. It was a dark hot humid road but eventually the Relais Mae Mau glowed out of the dark and fed us huge pizzas, cold beer and wifi. The proprietor then kindly dropped us back to the boat and furnished a car hire number to ring.

Fatu Hiva exploration

The dramatic gorge and priapic pillars of the Baie des Verges ( sorry......Vierges :-)

We scrambled high up the valley behind to a 200' high cascade where we swam.

Anchored in the Bay of Virgins, Fatu Hiva

Having joined Justin on watch early I was thrilled to spot land at 05:40 while we were still 27 miles away. Given the distance there was a huge bulk of land standing high above the itch a most promise vertical cliff.

We reached the southern tip by about 10:00 and with Emily at the helm, came in to the Baie des Vierges, lining up a prominent pillar of rock with a pale patch of the mountain behind. At least we would have done if we could work out which pale patch to use!

There were ten yachts at anchor already and, as we motored slowly in, the depths were still far too great for us to anchor. However it shelved steeply and we chose a spot inside all the others, and closer to the beach, dropping the hook in 8 metres.

The bay is without doubt the most stunning I have ever seen. Huge rock pillars tower and everywhere one sees faces and outlines of great trolls and Easter Island Aku Aku in the rocks. There is a great vertical gorge flanked by pillars beyond which the mountains rise vertically in shades of green into swirling cloud more than 3,000 feet high.

A river rushes into the bay splitting the great stony strand. There, sitting with her feet in the water,  was a mother in a green pareo wrap with her toddler splashing in the stream. To the left there was a flat space with a football pitch and two white goals glowing against the rich green foliage. To the right a crane was moving great concrete blocks to make the little harbour more secure against storms.

Baie des Vierges, Fatu Hiva, Marquesas

We went ashore in the dinghy and wandered up the road between wonderful flooring shrubs and trees, and low bungalows set on little legs in case of floods. Every house seems to have an aluminium boat in the yard. We learned that people go fishing for tuna and bring in 200kg monsters.

The road wound gently up between the rock pillars and we spoke to a few people on the way, all keen for us to trade for their fruit. We spotted men collecting honey from beehives, the beekeeper in a full bee suit with smoker, but his two tattooed assistants standing unconcerned in nothing but swimming trunks as they took the honeycombs and put them into a bin. They waved us down and gave us a dripping comb to eat then and there, with the bees buzzing around us.

People asked if we were walking to the Cascade. We weren't, but once they had said it, then suddenly we were! Simple enough at first but then some rock hopping across the river, then lots of mud, which doesn't work in flip flops - so bare feet for Emily and me.

Then the trail became more meant with stone steps and little stone cairns, winding steeply up through rain forest. At one point it ducked under an overhanging cliff and the path had fallen away into the river below. The others had managed it but with tired legs and a large heavy bag over my shoulder found it hard, and with bare feet slipping in soft mud had to squat and sit on a rock, holding onto a projection in the cliff. As I swung through to the other side, my handhold gave way and I was covered with earth, but I didn't go down into the gorge below thankfully.

Now it began to rain hard, so I stuffed my shirt into my waterproof bag and let the rain wash mud off me. We soon came to a most spectacular waterfall thundering 200 feet into a pool, and were soon swimming happily in spray and rain. Later we discovered that there were big eels swimming with us.

Back down in the village Emily and I met the lady selling honey (3000 CFA Pacific for a wine bottle full is about €25). She gave us 4 large pamplemousses as a present and we said we'd come back once we'd found some money. Then we met a man who needed rivets to repair his aluminium boat, but mine were sadly all too short to be useful. He took us to see his carvings which were very fine. If we had been able to exchange .22 bullets we could have bought lots of things. Justin had told us that on his last trip he'd bought .22 ammunition to trade with, when they went through Panama. This confirmed that completely. We met another sailor lugging a big bag up the street full of stuff he was going to trade.

At the little store, Therese the shopkeeper was friendly, but wouldn't take euros. However she suggested that we might like to have a local meal, and that Katy from the school served meals to visiting yachts. Sure enough we soon met Katy coming from the school, with a frangipani flower behind her ear, and a reasonable number of teeth in her smile. In a few minutes we had agreed to have supper at €15/ head the following night. Turns out that most of the yachts were doing the same tonight. We'll have to see whether any others want to join us tomorrow.

Back on board the sunset blazed straight into the bay illuminating the rock pillars with fire. We sat in the dark rocking gently to the swell, with the waves breaking soothingly on the rocks either side and ten anchor lights swaying in a little mobile constellation.

Fatu Hiva arrival