Tin Tin's Sailing Calendar

Thursday, 27 April 2017

The famous valley of Typee

Herman Melville, of Moby Dick fame, spent time in Nuku Hiva having jumped ship and been kept prisoner by a tribe. His book, Typee, is an exciting novel based on his adventures here, and as is set in the next valley along from Taiohae in in Taipivai Bay. We've all read his story and as soon as our anchor problem was solved we set sail in that direction. The bay is divided into three inlets by high rocky ridges. As we doused sail, a black cloud rolled down and the sea hissed white with torrential rain. We dropped anchor in 5 metres in the muddy flood of coconuts and tree debris washing down fro the valley. In a strange way it could have been a Scottish loch, with the high ridges swirling with mist, and dropping steeply to the water. So chilled did we feel that we used Rosalind's pressure cooker to brew up a nice hot "Lake Soup" for lunch.
We clambered ashore on a rocky breakwater and waded through muddy tracks to the road, seeing lots of land crabs along the way. A "drift", still above water, crossed the raging brown river to the village where we inspected the church and chatted to various passers-by. The church was a huge open space under a high roof with no pillars. The side walls are waist high giving ventilation and some light. The pulpit was a large tree bole nicely carved.

Up the street we found a little shop and bought tubs of local ice-cream including a dark purple one called Taro, which is a yam-like tuber. Very nice. On our way we met Royand daughter Lisa from yacht Mabroukha exploring in a hire car. The rain set in hard again and the road became a river, everyone getting drenched except for me with my handy brolly. We waded across a field to inspect a large ceremoni Marae, nicely recreated with thatched ceremonial houses in stone platforms, surrounded by carved Tikis.

1 comment:

Mark Stephens said...

Well Well well! Glad that there is another brolly aboard now... I won't feel quite such an eccentric when I wander around with mine anymore!