8/3/2018
We finally set sail from Luderitz on Emily's Birthday, remembering that she was with us a year ago to celebrate in the islands near Panama. The wind was fresh and cold, but the sun was shining through misty skies. The pink and green 1915 German architecture of the town faded into the colour of the sand dunes behind as we sailed out past the bare rocks of Penguin Island, Seal Island and Shark Island. Dusky Dolphins came to play round us, leaping clear of the water to have a good look.
Our course took us up the misty coast all day staying about 5-10 miles off to avoid uncharted hazards, but at sunset we headed in to a mile offshore to see the great dunes that come down to the Atlantic. These were pale sand colour, unlike the bright orange-red ones we saw inland. The dark rocky headland of Dolphin Head, with its curved back and prominent fin echoed the shapes of the hordes of Dusky Dolphins cavorting round us, sometimes leaping clear of the waves to get a better look at TinTin. Behind Dolphin Head there was a little bay which tempted me for a moment, but the sun set and we turned out to sea to begin the 1,280 miles to St. Helena, which should take us about 9 days.
The night was bright with stars and phosphorescence from the waves and we made good progress in 30-40 knots of wind. Then the moon came up and illuminated everything brightly. I was on watch at 0300 when a pod of dolphins came racing to join us, leaving phosphorescent trails in the sea, and then gleaming brightly as they broke the surface close alongside.
Reflecting on our time in Namibia, I am struck by the friendliness, the efficiency and the high standards of shops, campsites and restaurants.
Now as we sail away, it's a relief to be at sea again. Justin is fishing, Mark baking banana cake, and I have just received visa approval to visit Ascension Island. Not an easy place to visit!
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